Anyone try this from sportsman direct? Thinking about ordering a jar but thought i would ask here first
HWI Tipsie Dust PyroCrystalline Epoxy

Not sure if I am reading your post correctly. Are you suggesting using epoxy to put on a tip guide? If so, then I'd say heck no. Don't do it. Because what if you break the tip and need to replace it? Are you willing to destroy the blank for a tip?

Tips are generally installed using a heat glue adhesive, and even then do not overheat it. Only warm it up enough to loosen the glue and let the tips slide on and off.

I would never recommend any form permanent adhesive.

This brings up memories of a post from about 4 yrs ago concerning a powdered heat melt tip top adhesive used by St Croix.
[www.rodbuilding.org]
At the time no one knew where it could be purchased in a small quantiles. It doesn’t seem to be a true epoxy but rather a type of heat melt adhesive.
Here is the write up on it. [sportsmensdirect.com]
Norm

I have heard of that type of adhesive but was never interested in trying it because to me it doesn't lend itself for rod tip application

I always use two part 15- 30 minute epoxy to bond rod tips for two reasons: first it gives me plenty of time to align the tip to the guide train and second it offers the strongest bond possible.

Yes, epoxy makes tip removal difficult, but that is a future event that may or may never happen, if it does then with some extra care and patience the tip can be replaced. I will risk some extra work and patience in the future for ease of installation and bond strength in the present.

I have no issue with using hot melt glue, it has been proven to be a common and very reliable installation, but I prefer to go another route.

You have to decide by either persuasion or experience which kind of adhesive to use.

Have fun



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2021 12:38PM by John DeMartini.

I like the Flex Coat tip top adhesive...the yellow stick. It seems a bit stronger to me and allegedly stands higher temps.

Years ago I used stick shellac to secure broadheads to cedar arrow shafts. These broadheads endured many times the stress that a tip-top does. Today any heat-activated tip-top adhesive should hold just fine - IF it is properly applied.

Let's deal with the specs. This stuff melts at 250 F. Which should mean that with reasonable care it can be used to attach, and detach, tip tops without damaging a blank if one uses common sense in using it. To attach is very clean and low risk. To detach, as with any product, first try to remove it by applying tension to the tiptop so that it will move as soon as the adhesive gives (rubber band, many other methods, but the idea is to apply force that will allow the tiptop to move at the minimum temperature possible).

It looks to me that this stuff is the ideal material for attaching tiptops.

I bought a jar of this stuff to test it out. I put a tip top on an old rod tonight. I will wait see how it holds tomorrow night. My concern is if someone was to leave the rod inside a boat with a cover on it. How hot can it get before the adhesive fails?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/10/2021 07:41PM by David Luttig.

How hot can a blank handle? I use flexcoat adhesive always have. Takes what seems to be very little heat to remelt it. I have never needed more than about ten seconds or so with a very low flame bic lighter to get a tip hot enough to make adjustments after the initial install. I am never concerned about over heating the blank. While the tipsy dust seems like a superior bond and a bit easier to use, 250 degrees sounds like a lot of heat on the blank if have to make an adjustment to the alignment.

For peace of mind on securing tips I make a practice of using the Fuji tips with the tang. HN/MN series. I always trim wrap the tip anyways. With these tips I got the thread locking it in place as well as the adhesive, plus I am sure a bit of finish epoxy seeps into the tip when I finish the wrap. Seems like a belt and suspenders approach. But I have never pulled a tip loose.

I would wager for every tip-top that falls off due to adhesive failure two hundred tip-tops are sheared off by home doors, car doors, and ceiling fans. Using rod tubes helps.

After 16 hours, I took the tip top and very easily pulled it from the blank. At the same time last evening I set the same size tip top using the flex coat tip top stick and can not remove the tip top from the blank. I will not be using this for any of my tip tops. Still glad I bought the jar, now I know how it performs.

Once you start pushing over about 225F you may cause damage to some rod blanks. This is generally something that rears its head when trying to remove a tiptop. I have seen many blank tips fold over under this kind of heat.

...........

David, please clarify. With no heat, after 16 hours, the tiptop came off very easily? thanks.

No heat at all. Simply took and gave it a slight twist. There was no resistances. I know I had enough glue on it as there was residual glue on the blank. That cleaned off with my nail. There is no comparison to the flex coat. I was hoping this stuff would work because it is very easy to use.

For years I satisfactorily used heat stick glue. But I found it difficult to work with, and somewhat messy. After some experimenting I've recently been using Super Glue, Future Glue GEL. It is much easier to work with and easier to neatly control the application. I wrap fly rods, and for my purposes it seems as strong as the heat stick glue; and breaks down for adjustment or removal with a comparable amount of heat.

I also use "super glue" on my fly rod builds and also find tip removal not to be a problem as it acts like heat stick with low heat removal.

Phil Erickson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I also use "super glue" on my fly rod builds and
> also find tip removal not to be a problem as it
> acts like heat stick with low heat removal.


Good to know because I have the same complaint about heat sticks.
Thanks.

Update: I started playing around with this stuff more because I just didn’t understand why it was not holding. I figured it out! I was definitely heating it up to much. I have now done a half dozen tips and everyone of them has held to the point where I can’t pull or twist it off. I fill the tube and hold it over my burner just so it gets warm. When I see the powder “disappear ” in the tube, I put it on the tip of the rod, give it a complete turn and it is stuck! So much easier then the glue stick. Just wanted to give an update...
Dave