Russell Brunt Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Tim, it might chase off the smallmouths, but you
> could try some sevenstrand as a leader. It is a
> braided cable. The lowest pound test has a
> diameter about like 4# mono. Sort of a bronze
> color. You can tie knots with it, like a
> bowline.
>
> Otherwise I'd suggest a fluro leader and re-tying
> a lot.
Sounds like a cool idea.
I will definitely be experimenting with it.
Thanks

The rod that I use for small treble hook lures like you are using is a Rainshadow IP840, or as it is currently called the UL Revelation Popping blank. I use it mostly for casting little cranks like the smallest size Big-O and 1/32-1/16oz jigs with plastics for bass and panfish. Unfortunately it's not available in a 2-piece configuration. It's a fantastic blank, but I suspect that your choice of the SJ9000 MHX blank in two pieces will likely serve you well also. It should have the soft tip you need and more power in the butt to handle larger fish.

My local river has a good population of pike, and in late summer I have a blast chasing smallmouth and pike with walk-the-dog lures. I use 6" steel leaders in the smallest weight I can find and they get the job done great. I do like the idea of just using a section of wire without hardware. I might have to pick some leader material up and give it a try or snip the hardware off of a leader I have already.

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The rod that I use for small treble hook lures
> like you are using is a Rainshadow IP840, or as it
> is currently called the UL Revelation Popping
> blank. I use it mostly for casting little cranks
> like the smallest size Big-O and 1/32-1/16oz jigs
> with plastics for bass and panfish. Unfortunately
> it's not available in a 2-piece configuration.
> It's a fantastic blank, but I suspect that your
> choice of the SJ9000 MHX blank in two pieces will
> likely serve you well also. It should have the
> soft tip you need and more power in the butt to
> handle larger fish.
>
> My local river has a good population of pike, and
> in late summer I have a blast chasing smallmouth
> and pike with walk-the-dog lures. I use 6" steel
> leaders in the smallest weight I can find and they
> get the job done great. I do like the idea of
> just using a section of wire without hardware. I
> might have to pick some leader material up and
> give it a try or snip the hardware off of a leader
> I have already.
Today I was going over my rod options again. And the SJ9000 ML-F is up there on the list. Someone posted earlier that the MHX blanks run on the stiffer side . Which I like to hear since I think I want "extra fast"

Top water with these light lures is tricky. Especially from a canoe. You want a tip that can get it out there. But also be firm enough to quickly take up that slack that is always in the line with light lures at rest .

I have been using the same knot for 40 years. One of my Uncles showed it to me on my first fishing trip.
.I dont even know what it is called. Put the line through the eye and back again.. overhand knot,, hook through hole,, wet and carefully pull tight.. I dont think it has ever failed..

What type of knot should i learn for the sevenstrand?
Thanks.

The knot you're tying is called a Palomar knot. As far as using a wire leader on a light topwater popper that sits at rest ...... good luck with that.

The knot your uncle showed you is a Palomar knot. One of the few knots that works equally well with mono and braid.

Swivel and crimp sleeves will be quickest and strongest. You can tie mono to steel leader with an Albright. Tag end to hook can be a figure eight or a bowline. See if you have a local tackle shop that caters to musky fishing. Ask them how they rig.

The MHX SJ9000-2 isn't a spin-jig blank, it is a hot shot blank. I would say they are the fastest blanks made. Very thin tip. The rest of the blank gets strong in a hurry and doesn't have a lot of bend to it. That said the SJ9000 is the lowest power hot shot blank and will bend well into the blank.

I like mine a lot and I think everyone should have one in their arsenal (even if I don't think it is the right choice for your trip). Just be prepared for something different and unique.

Still think you should consider a saltwater popping blank. If Mudhole offered a P902-2 I'd suggest it but the P904-2 is too heavy in power.

Good luck. Sounds like you have a really nice fishing location.

P.S. Two piece makes it tough. Take a look at the NFC FW 702-2(IM) (seems a little light in power). Search for reviews on g loomis tsr 862-2 glx. MHX S842-2, Bushido SP72-2/4-8, and American Tackle MA-SP7-2/4-10 are all possibilities.

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

MHX used to make a Hot shot HS9000 blank. I once warrantied a broken SJ9000 and MHX sent me the HS9000 as the replacement. They were exactly the same blank. Nothing wrong with the SJ9000, it is a very fine rod. Has a very fast action with a more powerful butt than most other light powered blanks and will cast a light lure a long way. Another reason I like the MHX blanks is that they have an excellent warranty, just register your blank. The MHX S842-2, which was offered as another alternative, is a very light to ultra light blank, just not powerful enough for what you want to do.

I’m going to throw a bit of a curve ball into this discussion. It’s been eleven years, but I have a sincerely deep level of experience regarding smallmouth bass in the BWCAW. There are other methods that are often more productive for smallmouth in those lakes than teasing the shoreline with poppers. There is an uncanny abundance of reefs, islands, humps, rocky flats, and other types of hard structure. The large fish will be on these during much of the day. The near shore reefs will hold the large ones during the spawn. A popper isn’t consistently the best way to catch those fish. If you are building a one rod arsenal for 10 hour days, I’d also consider one that works smaller, medium to deep crankbaits. You’ll catch large fish and get a mental break from the one repetitive technique. Twitching tubes, using craw/creature plastics on drop shots, and twitching suspending, deep jerkbaits are very effective strategies for ringing up the large ones. Most of the good smallmouth lakes are fairly clear with an abundance of crayfish. The mid-day fishing is better in the rocks.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/18/2021 04:13AM by Kendall Cikanek.

Joe Vanfossen Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The rod that I use for small treble hook lures
> like you are using is a Rainshadow IP840, or as it
> is currently called the UL Revelation Popping
> blank. I use it mostly for casting little cranks
> like the smallest size Big-O and 1/32-1/16oz jigs
> with plastics for bass and panfish. Unfortunately
> it's not available in a 2-piece configuration.
> It's a fantastic blank, but I suspect that your
> choice of the SJ9000 MHX blank in two pieces will
> likely serve you well also. It should have the
> soft tip you need and more power in the butt to
> handle larger fish.
>
> My local river has a good population of pike, and
> in late summer I have a blast chasing smallmouth
> and pike with walk-the-dog lures. I use 6" steel
> leaders in the smallest weight I can find and they
> get the job done great. I do like the idea of
> just using a section of wire without hardware. I
> might have to pick some leader material up and
> give it a try or snip the hardware off of a leader
> I have already.


Thanks for the input on the sj9000 and leader.
Yes, chasing smallmouth on the surface is fun.

Kendall Cikanek Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I’m going to throw a bit of a curve ball into
> this discussion. It’s been eleven years, but I
> have a sincerely deep level of experience
> regarding smallmouth bass in the BWCAW. There are
> other methods that are often more productive for
> smallmouth in those lakes than teasing the
> shoreline with poppers. There is an uncanny
> abundance of reefs, islands, humps, rocky flats,
> and other types of hard structure. The large fish
> will be on these during much of the day. The near
> shore reefs will hold the large ones during the
> spawn. A popper isn’t consistently the best way
> to catch those fish. If you are building a one rod
> arsenal for 10 hour days, I’d also consider one
> that works smaller, medium to deep crankbaits.
> You’ll catch large fish and get a mental break
> from the one repetitive technique. Twitching
> tubes, using craw/creature plastics on drop shots,
> and twitching suspending, deep jerkbaits are very
> effective strategies for ringing up the large
> ones. Most of the good smallmouth lakes are fairly
> clear with an abundance of crayfish. The mid-day
> fishing is better in the rocks.

I love curveballs.
I wrote up a big long reply but lost all of it:( I will re do it later.
I would love to pick your brain later on summer and fall smallmouth fishing.
We always have gone up in early June after the kids got out of school.
Our most productive 4.5 days of fishing was 253 fish. 90% on the surface.
And a personal best 22.5inch smally. I kept telling my brother "its so long"Unfortunately my scale didn't work until the next day.
All fish were released healthy. No barbs.
Bwca permits open on the 29th. Book early. Because of covid Canada is off limits and permits filled up fast last year

I am back again. Life gets busy...

i decided on the MXH SJ9000-2 blank
2 piece, 7ft 6in, med-LT , fast
wt. 1.50 oz
butt 0.514
tip 4.4

Now i need to figure out the rest.
I will probably end up making two rods with this blank. one with a 3000 real and the other with the 1000.

I think i will probably be ordering the blanks from Mudhole.

QUESTION
1. rod seats.....any opinions on the comfort style grips? size or material, chilly tamps? My hand measures 9 inches from tip of pinkly to tip of thumb. I just took a look at the four rods i have near by, each have a different real seat. I have never paid much attention to them before. None are real comfortable . And some are lousy. The best grip has a ridge that the pointer finger rides over, with only a inch of cork in front of that. The grip section of the catalog lists many grip parts. are oall of them needed?
All i know is that i dont want a grip that loosens the seat with each casting motion.

2. guides. this one i have no clue. once again casting 6-10 lb braid and a 1/8 oz topwater lure
3. I am thinking split grip

My cheap rods have always been cork.
i am a golfer so the winn grips intrigue me

Any and all ideas welcomed