HAPPY NEW YEAR!

A friend gave me a blank, which she knows absolutely nada about and I wuz wondering how I could identify it. I ordered a caliper to more accurately measure the butt/tip dia.s, not sure how much help that will be.

Thinking that I'll probably hafta show the blank to a knowledgeable custom rod builder. Don't know any so could use some names -- someone who isn't too far from the Olympia, WA area

I've never built a rod, and the only "quality" rods I've owned were a Lami Kenai Special, a Buzz Ramsey Air and a Shimano Clarus. I'm mentioning this as an indication of how good my guesstimates might be...)

I'm planning on using this [free!!] blank fer ma first attempt at building a rod.

I would like to use this build fer salmon, rivers mostly. Usually use 20-30lb. BRAID, and lures of 1/4 - 1 oz. Leaning towards a spinning rod to toss spoons n spinners and maybe a lil drifting.

Below are my best guesstimates so probably not real accurate...

Length: 8 1/2', 102"
Mat'l: seems to be graphite, (pretty light,if had to guess I'd say probably IM6 type modulus?)
Butt dia: near as I kin tell bout 0.525 (using a ruler...)
Tip size: bout 4 - 4.5
Power: MH
Action: mod fast
Color grey
Sections: 2

Also had a piece of masking tape on it that had "8 1/2 G1000" written on it.

- how bad/good of an idea is this
- advice on how to ID da blank
- What would be a reasonable budget fer guides, reel seat etc?
-advice on what type/quality of guides
- reel seat recommendations

Any advice, thoughts, or suggestions on how I should proceed will be greatly appreciated.

Thanx fer takin the time to read and, hopefully, reply.

Take care n stay safe
GO HAWKS!!

Doing a quick search on the G1000 shows it to be more than likely a lamiglas blank. Search hits on the G1000 show it could be a fly rod.

I would have to guess it is a Lamiglas based on the G1000. Butt and tip diameter along with weight will help. Probably worth asking Lamiglas.

If it is a Lamiglas that is quite a nice gift. Be sure to show your appreciation:)

Russ in Hollywood, FL.

Lamiglas blank made with same material as your Kenai Special. If when you bend the tips together and look at them the blank and your Kenai special are similar it is probably the GSH 102 2MH, if the tip looks smaller, lighter, and faster than it's probably the GSH 102 2MT, mag taper tipped blank. The only real difference between the two is the tip on the 2 MT let's you throw a little lighter offerings while still having similar backbone when fighting a fish and the same upper limit in lure ratings. Personally I prefer the MT for it's versatility, can even be used as a plug rod.



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 01/04/2021 11:53AM by Spencer Phipps.

Thank fer the amazingly quick replies.

I'm like a newborn as far as rodbuilding and this forum. This is one of the best forums I've ever seen! I'm in awe of the amount and quality of info shared here and the fact it is done by non-illiterate, polite adults. Simply incredible.

Thank to all who've unselfishly shared their experience and knowledge

Take care n stay safe

Those G1000 blanks were good blanks!

[www.lamiglas.com]

Take a look at the 1022 series. It is very likely one of those. If you have good familiarity with steelhead rods and how much effort it takes to flex the tip by hand, and some measurements from a caliper could narrow it down pretty quickly.

Hello Roger.

I think Joe is probably right-

GP1022MT - (G1000 Pro Blank) 8'6 Mag Taper


8'6 2-Piece Medium/Mag Power

8-17 Line Wt. | 1/4-5/8 Lure Wt.

Butt Dia 0.555 | Tip Size 5 | Avg. Wt. 2.7

Steelhead, Coho, Sockeye and Pink Salmon multi use rod. Walleye trolling blank. Stronger backbone with light tip action.





Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

G1000’s go back at least to the later 1980’s, and they are still in production. I don’t know for sure, but I can’t remember the series ever being suspended. I bought two of them more than twenty years apart. I’ve found them to be durable. Both remain fully usable. They’ve usually been near the middle of the Lamiglas line in price. I think they were nearer or were to the top of the line before the old “Certified Pro” series came out. Their premium lines have changed quite a few time while the G1000 has persisted in the mid-ground. They do feel less sensitive and light in comparison to newer and/or more pricey options. This is not a surprise or reason to not fully enjoy building and fishing a G1000 rod.

Rumors took hold some, about fifteen years ago about them being breakage prone. I still hear these a little. If you do, I wouldn’t worry. I know lots of long-time users who have never had a failure. Lamiglas has always warrantied them, well. They were a very popular rod series when many people were moving to Washington and Oregon and trying out salmon and steelhead fishing. There was a lot of high sticking and awkward fish landing happening as people were learning. Few casting and spinning rods have been carried more in float planes to remote salmon and steelhead locations.

Any braid proof, moderately priced line of guides should be a good match. In the Fuji line, the Alconite’s would be great. The Fazlites should be fine, too. The Mudhole LZR line would be a good choice. I would readily use similarly options from Alps, Sea Guide, or American Tackle (in no particular order). I’m not trying to please all or any of the sponsors, I’m just not aware of any of these makers having an unusual failure rate in recent years. Personally, I don’t think you would see much benefit on that G1000 from the much more expensive titanium and/or thin ring guide options. If you really enjoy the build and fishing, a future project on a float length rod will be likely.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/06/2021 03:17AM by Kendall Cikanek.

Many thanks fer the replies. It's heartwarming that y'all are willing to take the time to share yer rod-building wisdom. My faith in the human race has (nearly) been restored!

The scrap of masking tape on my mystery blank reads:
“GSH 8 ½’ ” vice G1000.
Guess I had a “senior moment". Darn short-term memory seems to be getting worse by the day…
Tip size is 6 (0.094”), butt dia about 0.520, and it seems to have a moderate, maybe even a moderately fast action. I would guess q medium to medium heavy power.
Also, both halves are of nearly equal length w/the tip section maybe a sixteenth of an inch shorter. And it’s a dark charcoal Grey.

My focus now is on rounding-up the necessary tools & consumables and selecting the components. I am so stoked to attempt my first build!

Leaning toward Fuji KL-H BC Grey Alconite guides using either the Fuji “KR Concept” or the NGC guide train.
Mainly wanna maximize sensitivity (of course…) without spending too much since it is a mystery blank and my first venture into the rod-building universe. Don’t wanna go too cheap because: 1) it was free and 2) it appears, at least to my untrained eye, to be a decent $100+ blank.

Having zero experience w/split grips I can’t decide if I’d like to go that route or the standard 13 ¾ ” rear grip with plain old tube/pipe(?) Seat and a 3” fore grip. Will probably stick with the Fuji line of components here as well.

Do split grips and their exposed blank area contribute much to the sensitivity of the rod?

Getting ready to order thread, glues epoxies etc. -- any advice for a first timer?

I understand that the reel seat/grips should be sized to my hand, not the blank. Since I have large hands what is the largest size seat for a blank w/0.0520” dia., I see most are 16 & 17, would sizes 22 or even 24 be too big? I’m probably overthinkin this…

Waiting to order til I figure out which reel seat and hopefully some advice on thread, glues, epoxies etc..

Thanx a Million fer the wisdom already shared

Take care n be safe