Hey guys,

Havent posted in awhile, hope everyone had a great holiday.

I have a couple questions, first off, ive restored a handful of these things and havent ran into these issues before.

Im taking the baitcaster reel seat, as well as the rod to a high polish, this particular one has a reel seat lock ive not seen before, if you google "vintage Sears JC Higgins steel fishing rod blinger" it should pop up, it has a lever that locks down over the cork (for lack of better description)

The lock is damaged, it has a spring loaded foot im guessing, the foot has been pushed towards the rear and jammed tight on an angle.. I cant see any way to free the foot without damaging it beyond repair.. Almost looks like it would have snapped in with tabs, but i could be wrong.. The lock not being able to release the foot under its spring tention is making it impossible to find a reel to seat.. @#$%&, i cant find a reel that fits period! Most are to long and hit the frame, or too low and and would have the line hitting on the frame.. My penn 10 fits, tight.. But has clearance all around.. Howwever, that reel is waaay to big for it, and the feet wont acually lock so the seat moves around.. So any suggestion on a vintage reel that would fit would be welcomed, but @#$%&, ive got nothing to go off of and havent a clue what this rod was used for.

Ok, so nlw the acual questions..

When i polish the lock, (near mirror finish) what can i do to stop it from clouding up a few minutes after i stop? Im guessing im not through the layer of oxidation?

Where can i get, or what can be repurposed, for a domed metal butt cap? The one i have off it might be salvagable, but its pretty beat up..

And lastly,
Do any of you guys wrap the guides is copper wire like they used to? Im guessing the proper was to lock the wraps down then is silver soldering? And is it suggested to tack the guide to the blank with solder to keep them from moving.

Any help is appreciated, thanks guys.

Anthony,
First of all, welcome back.
I thought I was the Odd-Man-Out on the forum due to my passion for the vintage FG Conolon blanks and testing COF guide trains but, OK, you win, tag, you’re it!!! LOL
It is difficult to visualize what you are describing which in turn makes it difficult offer any assistance; I will attempt to find the old steel rods I scavenged from my dad’s arsenal to hopefully enlighten me. Until then, if the metal you are polishing “clouds up a few minutes after I [you] stop”, I doubt it is due to residual oxidation but more likely simply the nature of the metal; was it polished before? As for the “spring loaded foot” being jammed, lubrication, vibration and heat shocking from cold to hot to cold to hot may help. Vibration from an electric engraving tool might work, even using the side/ body of the tool to avoid marking the seat. Oh, one more suggestion… BE PACIENT! That is all I’ve got for now = good luck.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Hey! Hows it goin man, long time no talk! Lol..

Ill email you a few pics to help describle what i mean..

I ended up getting it to hold a shine, the ones ive seen online, (the literal 3 pics) all have mirror locking thingys.. So yes, i guess.. Lol.. I think the scouring pad i was using had something in or on it... Hit it with brasso.. Dulled the polish since i polish alot higher, but it kept its shine.. So im calling it user error.