There is obviously a lot of knowledge here judging from earlier posts on the stand-up rods. So, I would like to toss out a question on gimball alignment. I normally add the gimball last and just sort of eyeball it. Then I put two bands of masking tape on it draping them down the butt, across the gimball, and then back up the butt. Most times it comes out pretty good but it seems like no matter how careful I am the gimball always seems to be off just a tad when I look at it later. Not enough to cause any harm but I sure would like some foolproof way of knowing it was aligned perfectly each time. Any ideas? Thanks.

Hi Pete- An easy way to align the gimbal is to use something like a small screwdriver (or whatever you can find that's just a little bigger in diameter than the width of the gimbal's slot), and press the screwdriver's shaft in the vertical slot of the gimbal after applying epoxy. Hold the screwdriver in place, then sight down the rod from the butt end and fine-tune the alignment by twisting the screwdriver in either direction. Then you can secure the gimbal with tape to keep it aligned while the epoxy cures. The screwdriver just makes it easier to see if the vertical slot in the gimbal is lined up with the guides.

Tight lines.

Tom

Hi Pete,
I use a metal rod or dowel that fits into the gimbal slot and a small level. With the guides lined up vertically I put the dowel in the horizontal slot and check it with the level. You can then double check by using the dowel in the vertical slot and sighting down the rod. This method seems to be working out well for me.

Good Luck,
Joe

When I was building many offshore and boat rods, I made a device to ensure perfect gimbal alignment. It consisted of a base supporting an arm that held a reel foot. This piece was adjustable forward and backward, and up and down. But no matter where it was positioned the reel foot was held in a perfectly horizontal plane. On the rear of the base was a perfectly vertical upright that could be slid up and back and locked in place.

In use, the reel seat was opened and the reel foot brought in to position. The seat was tightened on the foot piece . Now the gimbal was installed and the vertical bar slid forward and locked into the gimbal nock. The upright and the reel foot were pefectly aligned with each other, and now so was the gimbal and reel seat. In that position I would leave the gimbal so the adhesive would set up with it in the proper position.

It worked rather well and I suppose I should make up the plans and print them in an issue of RodMaker. We'll see. But such a device is not hard to fabricate with a little thought and if you make many of these type rods it could be a big help to you. I am sure there are simpler methods and other similar "tools" for doing this as well. Hopefully others will chime in with their own method.

Tom Kirkman
RodMaker Magazine
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