I completed my first coat on a fly rod. I used a razor blade to cut out a few imperfections and tag ends. Should I wipe down the epoxy before my second coat just to make sure there aren't fingerprints or contaminates? I also need to apply my decal. If so, what should I use? Rubbing alcohol? Thanks.

Gary

Epoxy over a solvent is not a good idea. Use painter's blue tape to remove dust and foreign matter.

Most decals apply better on a thin, level bed of epoxy.

Ok. Thanks. I'll just use a dry cloth to wipe it off.

every person will do it a little different on the wipe down , between coats , I use rubbing A. . an let it dry , some people will say I am crazy but that is what I do , with no problems

William Sidney
AK

Some of the blue painters tapes contain contaminants.

I use a tooth brush that is given to you after you have oral surgery. Very soft.
Herb

I learned a long time ago, that once I start a rod build with respect to the thread wrapping, I never ever use any type of solvent on anything through the final application of finish.

I have had issues, as well as many of my fellow rod builders have had one or more issues with the use of any sort of solvent or cleaning solution - after the rod has had the guides wrapped.

i.e. no solvent either before, during, or after the application of one or more coats of finish.

Take care

Gary,
Do not over-think it! Assuming your wrapping environment is relatively clean, apply the second coat of epoxy 18- 36 hours after the initial. Apparently you already have a good procedure to allow for “de-nubbing” the initial coat prior to additional/final coats = very good; keep using it = that’s what I do.
There is nothing to be gained from a solvent-wipe which can actually produce/introduce adverse conditions. A very positive (best), chemical bond between layers of epoxies is achieved while the first is still a bit “green”. A chemical bond will always be superior to a mechanical (sanded) bond. If the initial coat of epoxy has cured for more than 48 hours, scuffing the surface should be considered to achieve the best bond in lieu of the optimum chemical bond. To be honest, since thread wraps are not truly structural, 4-5 days between coats could afford adequate results.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks Mark. I just finished up last night. I didn't do anything between coats. Came out great.

Just keep your hands clean and wipe the knife clean of any oils with DNA before using. If you want to clean the rod, we recommend a citrus based cleaner like Zep for Home Depot.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

When I first started I would get uneven places in the epoxy because I did not have a dryer. I would wind up using sandpaper to even out the hardened epoxy. I found that solvents like DA and Acetone would make the surface sticky and hold the dust to the surface. Water and spit actually work better and doesn't leave any residue. You need to be careful with rags or paper towels because they can leave lent on the surface. Also by using an alcohol burner it will eliminate a lot of dust particles in the epoxy that happen after application while it is still wet.

Repeat



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/27/2020 10:13PM by Lance Schreckenbach.

Cleaning the surface of the wraps, or a first coat of epoxy, typically causes more problems than it solves.

How do you guys remove the shavings from nubs-etc? They tend to stick to the surface of the rod.
Thanks

Hello Bill.

I use a clean dry soft brush.



Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.