Just got a new carbon fiber handle for a 6wt. It doesn't have to be reamed as it is a little loose. My question is will the epoxy be enough to hold it in place or do I need to build up the blank with tape. It isn't too loose but slides on easily. Thanks in advance.

A slip fit is good, but there should not be enough clearance that it wobbles in place.

You can use size A or 00 thread spiraled along the blank under where the grip will reside to provide a type of shim.

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If it is real close a thick paste type epoxy should take up the gap.With a real close fit I just use a masking tape bushing at each end of the grip. If more than three or four wraps of tape is needed I would shim in multiple spots along the entire grip. As suggested thread works great if you need minimal buildup. Need more than that I like to use mesh drywall tape. Masking is fine in a couple spots as a locator. But a direct connection between the blank through your gap filler to the grip makes me feel more comfortable.

I use U 40 rod bond. I will apply a real heavy coating of epoxy. Work the grip back and forth and rotate it to have the epoxy spread out to fill the gap completely. You want to be pushing a fair amount of epoxy out of the grip as you slide it down to ensure you are filling the gap.Once I am about two inches from the final position I wipe off the excess blob of epoxy at the end of the grip.Have plenty of paper towels and denatured alcohol on hand for cleanup. I also like to cover carbon fiber grips completely with masking tape prior to gluing. Pain to wipe any excess epoxy off of them.

If the fit is a touch loose, I will use 1/4 inch wide masking tape in bands spaced apart about 1/16th of an inch. The slender arbor will keep the reel seat square and centered and the epoxy will go from the reel seat to the blank for a secure fit.

Thanks guys. I ended up shimming it with tape. It only took 2 wraps. This is my first fly rod and had a few issues. The epoxy came oozing out of the cutout for the reel seat. I ended up with epoxy in the slots for the reel foot. It was a disaster. I eventually got it cleaned up and it looks good. Any suggestions?

Taking the carbon fiber was a great idea. Thanks Michael.

This is why I glue reel seat first, then the grip.

If you clean the cutout’ you should be fine.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 10/05/2020 01:04AM by Eric MONTACLAIR.

On most any rod I glue up in as many steps as possible. Easier to line things up and makes cleanup way easier. In the case of a fly rod as suggested glue the seat first then the grip on. For spinning or casting I will do it in three steps rear grip seat then fore grip. I am in no hurry. Would rather deal with only one thing moving and only one glue line to worry about cleaning up at a time.

Thanks. Are you saying glue and let dry for each part? Even doing that doesn't keep glue out if the reel seat cutout. I had to pick the glue out with a toothpick.

Gary,
The solution to your gluing issue is pretty simple.

Do, not glue up and walk away and let it dry.

If using epoxy - which works well for many glue ups, I typically use 30 minute cure time epoxy. This, then leaves me about 15 minutes of actual working time to get things perfect and aligned perfectly.

When, doing a fore grip, a reel seat, arbor and rear grip, I normally do it all in one glue up. Time is money and no need to do it in multiple steps.

I start from the back and work toward the tip. This makes it easy for me to insure alignment and to get every thing in place and nicely aligned.

I use plenty of epoxy but do not go overboard. As soon, as everything is in place and secure, I am very generous in the use of DNA on a brush and or paper towels to clean everything up quickly in the first two or three minutes following the gluing of the components together.

But, as the next 30 minutes go by, I constantly monitor the state of the rod and the glue up. If there is any sign of epoxy gluing, I am like a Hawk on a rabbit running down a field, I quickly spot my quarry and quickly clean and or brush it away with a dna loaded tooth brush.

Remember, the glue needs to be on the inside of the joint and not visible to the outside. As soon as the glue begins to cure, the inside joint is relatively immune to any cleaning solution immersion. So, clean quickly as the glue is setting, before the glue has hardened and you will be good to go.

Keep a bunch of inexpensive new tooth brushes on hand for cleaning because they are expendable and work exceedingly well to clean hardening glue out of thread or slots where it shouldn't be.

Good luck

Thanks Roger. That's exactly what I do. I will add the toothbrush to the arsenal. That would have been easier to get into those cracks.