Will painters tape give me a straight clean edge on my epoxy applications

Thank you

I doubt it. Sometimes tape will cause epoxy creep, and could give you a hard edge where it does not creep under the tape.

A controlled application by rotation might be your cleanest looking option even if it is not a perfectly straight edge.

I doubt you would like the hard edge results tape can create.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/29/2020 03:38PM by Kent Griffith.

Some do use it. The finish edge depends upon the timing of when you remove the tape. Too early can be a mess if not very very careful, too late and you get a hard ridge edge. Experimenting will help you decide.

A straight edge is easy to get, no tape needed. You need a "steady rest" for your hand. A block of wood, etc. Load the brush with epoxy, lower the brush until the finish itself just touches the rod/wrap, Now rotate the rod underneath 360 degrees. That's all you have to do.

..........

What Tom said, I tried the tape and it sucked, Now I just hold the brush still about 1/8 past the the threads and let the finish do the work, comes out great.

John,
Be careful! Some tapes can “bleed” contamination onto/into your epoxy finish as was discovered during discussion in a post on this site. Some blue painter’s tape caused a reaction like silicone contamination. Save yourself any agony and test, test, test.
The best is to not use tape. As many have remarked a brushed edge is the quickest method and leaves a nice contoured edge. If you do use tape, do not load-up the epoxy and then pull the tape as soon as possible to avoid any edge; a heavy application of epoxy will creep after the tape is removed. The only time I use tape (3M vinyl “fine line”) is for my logo/info area of the blank. The thread borders on either side of the decals have a minimal amount of epoxy on them while the epoxy directly over the decals is 3-5 layers/coats thick; the only way I can avoid getting epoxy on the thread borders is to use tape but, again, the epoxy is not built-up on the ends and the tape is removed as soon as possible.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks everyone
I really appreciate the help
I’ll stay away from the tape and secure a hand rest
John d

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Thanks Lynn, that is the post I was referring to. You’re the best.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

John,
One of your best friends when applying finish is SPEED.

i.e. if you use a power wrapper that spins at 20-70 rpm when applying finish will essentially insure that you are laying down a straight line. The speed of the turning rod is such that it essentially insures that your hand does not have time to move as the rod spins around in front of your application of rod finish.

Best wishes.

I have used tape with success. But I have used tape with bleed. I tested several on a scrap blank and kept the one that worked. My hands shake too much anymore to use some of the methods above. But beware, if you use tape, you run the risk of bleed.

And if using a power wrapper, make certain that the blank is turning "true." If it is off-center it's almost impossible to get a straight edge as the blank bobs up and down. Just use paper shims, etc. between the chuck jaws and grip to make the blank run true.

Frog Tape multi-surface doesn't let anything bleed. I use it to restore lapidary machines especially where epoxy and epoxy paint is involved.

Mark T, stop it, you're making me blush. Lol Tim F. thanks for the info!