Forgive me if I'm being dense here but I can't find any posts specifically relating to using the Klass Kote 2 part urethane to coat a blank. Does the procedure for Flex Coat here apply? [www.rodbuilding.org] I've never heard of using a coffee filter before.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2020 01:31PM by Timothy Fisher.

From what I understand Klass Kote is similar to, or the same as, the old Clemens Crystal Coat. Although I have not used Klass Kote, I have clear coated blanks with Clemens Crystal Coat by wiping it on to a blank to give a very thin coat. You can wipe it on by using a cosmetic sponge, or cheese cloth , or a coffee filter, they are all lint free and work well. The process is very similar to that used for wiping on Permagloss. The Clemens Crystal Coat was a solvent based epoxy and thus was unlike most of the finish epoxies presently on the market. Being solvent based allows for it to be used as a clear coat. Some people even applied it via air brushing, rather than wiping it on. However, Permagloss is actually clearer and will also never yellow.

Cool I just did it and I forgot that the drying time for the stuff was 0 minutes lol. I'll probably do another coat just to be sure. It's not like you can see it has little waves in it from more than 2 feet away :) Looks 10x better than the 800 grit sanded blank! Do you think it would be acceptable for sealing wraps? Again I'm not looking for something that looks like it's covered in morning dew finish, just enough to seal the threads. Maybe 2 or 3 coats? I'm using colorfast thread so I assume nothing else needs to be applied.

The Clemens Crystal Coat was sold and used as a wrap finish, so I see no problem using the Klass Kote as a wrap finish. Should work just fine. As a note, when I used to use Crystal Coat, I would put the leftover mix in the freezer and used it the next day for the second coat.
Norm

I would use a thread wrap finish specific to rod building...Flexcoat, ProKote or Permagloss....I'm sure the Klass Kote is good for the rod finish...These products can be purchased from the sponsors listed on the left...

I believe the two part products are epoxy, Klass Kote, used to be a sponsor here some years ago. It's a thin product as wrap finishes go, takes multiple coats. Looks good when your done. They have many options on their site.

Klass-Kote contains a solvent, which is unusual for most epoxies. It is indeed what Clemens used to repackage as their Crystal Coat. It can be used to coat blanks, or thread wraps with a few coats. It's a different animal than what most are used to, but many swear by it.

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Blanks coated with this product may develop a milky appearance if left out in rainy weather for a few days. It goes away when rods dry thoroughly. This is not a problem with Permagloss or C P X tra. Moisture curing urethanes are the way to go. When I used it as a wrap finish ( as Norm said) it needs to turn longer than typical epoxies. I might add that way back when I coated blanks using this product we were advised to simply dip our fingers into the finish and apply as thin a coat as possible to the blank. I'm very sure the sponge, or filter method would provide a better coating. Better, but still not urethane.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/15/2020 08:12PM by Lynn Behler.

Norman Miller Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> The Clemens Crystal Coat was sold and used as a
> wrap finish, so I see no problem using the Klass
> Kote as a wrap finish. Should work just fine. As a
> note, when I used to use Crystal Coat, I would put
> the leftover mix in the freezer and used it the
> next day for the second coat.
> Norm

I have Flex Coat so I'll stick with that. Pretty sure it will be easier to work with in the end.

If you have the flex coat and like it, then for sure use it.
Norm

Sorry but every time I try to quote someone it says there's a word that I can't use. So, maybe I have a different product. From the can: KLASS KOTE "superior quality" urethane system PART-A Component Urethane clear. Use only with urethane catalyst". I searched for it and it seems to be popular among the car restoration crowd I suppose as a clear coat over the paint. Anyway I like the results and I'm doing it on the new build right now (a Pac Bay Tradition II 9' 5wt. fly). For better or for worse. PS it melts plastic but doesn't stick to it. It dissolved the mixing cup and spread out all over a PVC protector on the table top. But it didn't stick to it at all so I just peeled off the puddle :D

That’s because of the solvent in it. Mix it in an aluminum or glass mixing container. Some plastic containers will work but probably not worth the trouble to figure out which ones will. Aluminum or glass will work with everything.
Norm