I found the Acid Rod Excell spreadsheet and layout wheel on line a few weeks ago and used both both for the progressive layout and placement of the 5 degree offset for the stripper, 60, 120 and 180 degree guides as weli as the spacing for the progressive layout. I must say I am impressed with both of these wonderful tools as I have not had to move the spacing or position of any guides from the recommended placement. The rod looks great and the static test proved no moving of the guides necessary. I have used both of these to build my last 3 rods and they are working great. I really like how the wheel takes all the guesswork out of placing the guides for the spiral, I know I am at a perfect degree in relationship to the rod . I really like this, especially as a new rod builder. My only question now is when to add or subtract a guide from the total layout, say going from a 7'6' rod to 7"10". Is the 4 inches enough to warrant another guide, is there a rule of thumb for adding another guide, say 6-7 inches longer or shorter rod. If I built a 7"10" rod and used 10 guides on a 7'6" rod in my mind I would stay with the 10 guides because its only 4 inches, that spread out from the tip to stripper I would think would not warrant another guide. So help with this question would be appreciated as I dont want to add weight if not necessary. Thank you.

Keith Langford

Keith Langford Wrote:
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> the static test proved no moving of the guides
> necessary.

What sort of test is this?

Kent, there is an article in the "Library" on the subject. Near the bottom of the listed articles.

With a spiral wrap you probably don’t need an extra guide. Small incremental changes in the guide layout will take up the extra space, especially in the stiffer butt section. Play around a little and see what you get, Figuring things out so they work is the fun part of rod building, it seems like you have progressed a lot and are getting quite proficient at building rods from when you started just a short time ago. Keep up the good work.
Norm

Thank you Norman, it is because of people like you here on this forum that I have gained so much knowledge in a short period of time

As with any rod, your personal preference for how closely the line's path follows the curve of the blank when under load, is going to play into the number of guides, as well as the spacing of the guides. For me personally, I'm fairly certain that many of the builders on this forum would look at one of my rods, be it casting or spinning, and think that I use more guides than are needed. And I'd be quite alright with that, because in my mind that extra guide or two, serves a purpose.

It's kind of like using 10# line versus 15# line. I'd rather have it and not need it, than need it and not have it.

The angler, rod, reel, and line are an integrated unit: each element must add to the whole to achieve best performance. I fear some beginning rod builders confuse and conflate rods built for spinning reels and those built for revolving spool reels and those built for fly rod reels. This can cause confusion and disappointment. The best advice for rod builders of all different abilities comes to those who specify the type of reel and line this rod will employ - bait casting, spinning, trolling, fly rod - and the size of the target species - and the chief fishing method the rod will be used for: bait, trolling, casting, flipping, dry fly, streamer, nymph, and so forth.

Keith,
Norman has offered very sound advice and I certainly agree. With the guides on the bottom, one can usually benefit with using fewer guides. Static load testing will dictate exactly how many to achieve a similar arc to the blank but at least there is no concern with the line rubbing the blank as if the guides were on top. That being said, it is probably ultimately better to have one too many guides than one too few.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.