I just finished my first build. Lightweight spinning rod on a 6'6" MHX blank. I did I split grip but feel like it is too long. Can I cut off the butt and put a new one on? It is a 2 inch long butt end.

I assume you mean can you remove the grip itself, not cut off the end of the blank? In that case, yes. You would then have to install a new grip from the butt end, although due to it's short length this shouldn't be too much of a problem.

........

No. I was really thinking of cutting the blank. Removing the butt section won't shorten it.

Okay, so you made the actual handle length too long. Yes you can cut the blank and reinstall a new butt grip. It won't be quite the rod you "bought" but at this point moving the reel seat to the rear isn't a good option. I would advise perhaps fishing with it a bit before cutting anything. You may find it works fine as is.

............

As advised fish it first. But cutting it back at the butt won't really change anything now. Same amount if the blank is fo I g to be under load reel is in same position.

I did this with a recent build. Lightweight trout float rod that 9 foot 6. Did a split grip felt great how it was setup. Then I fished it. Hated it. About 4 inches of the butt had to go. Problem solved rod not affected in any way otherwise.

Cut it.

Good advice. I'll fish it first. I really like the rod but the butt seems to get in the way. Couple inches off would be perfect.

What's the best tool to cut a blank?

Gary

I would use a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Don't worry about the end of the blank being flat or perpendicular to the blank the butt will cover it

Good luck
John

John DeMartini Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Gary
>
> I would use a Dremel with a cut off wheel. Don't
> worry about the end of the blank being flat or
> perpendicular to the blank the butt will cover it
>
> Good luck
> John


Thanks John. Good point.

Gary,
The ideal cutting tool for rod blanks as well as nearly anything else, is a high speed very thin abrasive cut off wheel.

Here is an inexpensive pawn shop miter saw that I modified for this very purpose:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

If you like, you can just take a standard miter saw, remove the blade and bolt on a thin tool room abrasive cut off wheel. In this case it was an 8 inch miter saw, and I used 8 inch tool room cutting disks.

-------------
But, before I was finished, I had made some changes to the saw.
As an abrasive cut off wheel is used, the diameter of the wheel is reduced. Fine if you can change the saw to accommodate the smaller blade. But, a miter saw has a fixed bottom stop that is designed to be correct for the diameter of the designed saw blade for the saw in question.

To, to give continued cutting as the blade gets smaller, I took a piece of 2x4 inch steel open channel and bolted it down perpendicular to the cutting wheel.
Once bolted down, I took a pass with the cutting tool to slice a slot through the channel for the abrasive cut off wheel.
Then, to act as a back stop, I added a small 1x1 inch aluminum channel just behind the center line of the cut off wheel so that the blank will be in the correct position for chopping no matter the size of the cut off wheel.

--------------
I also did the same thing with a 3 inch minni chop saw that I purchased from Harbor freight. i.e. ground off all of the raised letters on the top surface of the saw base. Then, added a back stop for the blank to rest against. Finally removed the 2 inch blade and replaced it with a 3 inch - thin abrasive cut off wheel.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

The saw that is currently available from Harbor freight:
[www.harborfreight.com]

3-inch cutting wheels:
[www.harborfreight.com]

To add the cutting wheels, the blade guard and the blade is removed.

Then, the cutting wheel is bolted to the saw. Now, unless one fabricates a new wheel guard, you will be running the saw without the blade guard. So, wear safety glasses and never be in line with the cutting wheel to avoid any injury if the wheel comes apart.

Arrow shaft manufactures effectively use the exact same technique to chop graphite and fiberglass arrow shafts to length:

This is an example of an arrow shaft cutting saw. It is essentially a chop saw with an abrasive cut off wheel mounted on a measuring base for the arrow length:

[www.lancasterarchery.com]

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Gary,
> The ideal cutting tool for rod blanks as well as
> nearly anything else, is a high speed very thin
> abrasive cut off wheel.
>
> Here is an inexpensive pawn shop miter saw that I
> modified for this very purpose:
>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> p/photo/10088/title/blank-cutting-chop-saw/cat/508
>
>
> If you like, you can just take a standard miter
> saw, remove the blade and bolt on a thin tool room
> abrasive cut off wheel. In this case it was an 8
> inch miter saw, and I used 8 inch tool room
> cutting disks.
>
> -------------
> But, before I was finished, I had made some
> changes to the saw.
> As an abrasive cut off wheel is used, the diameter
> of the wheel is reduced. Fine if you can change
> the saw to accommodate the smaller blade. But, a
> miter saw has a fixed bottom stop that is designed
> to be correct for the diameter of the designed saw
> blade for the saw in question.
>
> To, to give continued cutting as the blade gets
> smaller, I took a piece of 2x4 inch steel open
> channel and bolted it down perpendicular to the
> cutting wheel.
> Once bolted down, I took a pass with the cutting
> tool to slice a slot through the channel for the
> abrasive cut off wheel.
> Then, to act as a back stop, I added a small 1x1
> inch aluminum channel just behind the center line
> of the cut off wheel so that the blank will be in
> the correct position for chopping no matter the
> size of the cut off wheel.
>
> --------------
> I also did the same thing with a 3 inch minni chop
> saw that I purchased from Harbor freight. i.e.
> ground off all of the raised letters on the top
> surface of the saw base. Then, added a back stop
> for the blank to rest against. Finally removed
> the 2 inch blade and replaced it with a 3 inch -
> thin abrasive cut off wheel.
>
> [www.rodbuilding.org]
> p/photo/20236/title/mini-chop-saw/cat/508
>
> The saw that is currently available from Harbor
> freight:
> [www.harborfreight.com]-
> cut-off-saw-62136.html
>
> 3-inch cutting wheels:
> [www.harborfreight.com]
> ut-off-wheel-10-pk-61354.html
>
> To add the cutting wheels, the blade guard and the
> blade is removed.
>
> Then, the cutting wheel is bolted to the saw. Now,
> unless one fabricates a new wheel guard, you will
> be running the saw without the blade guard.
> So, wear safety glasses and never be in line with
> the cutting wheel to avoid any injury if the wheel
> comes apart.
>
> Arrow shaft manufactures effectively use the exact
> same technique to chop graphite and fiberglass
> arrow shafts to length:
>
> This is an example of an arrow shaft cutting saw.
> It is essentially a chop saw with an abrasive cut
> off wheel mounted on a measuring base for the
> arrow length:
>
> [www.lancasterarchery.com]
> iew/id/46581/s/x-spot-pro-arrow-saw/category/8094/


Thanks for all the details Roger. I may look at that setup. I need to finish setting up my build area first.

A very small triangular file works very well. Keep turning the blank and very soon you will have a very nice, clean cut without splintering.

The triangle file process to me is a lost art, it is somewhat tedious but very effective, chances for error is near zero. I use that method when in a relaxed mood and not in a hurry.

Good suggestion Lynn.

Good idea. Thanks.

yes, the three cornered file..i was using a 6", then went to 8", much faster and just as clean..

I have an Easton arrow cut off saw that I use on arrow shafts. It works excellent on rod blanks as well. If I didn't have it , the one from harbor freight would work just as good and at about 1/3 the price is a great buy.

I just did the same thing. I was placing the reel seat focusing on the balance and in the end, I think the handle length is about 1-1.5” too long to be ideal. Two piece rod and guides are not on yet, so it would possible to cut off the seat and move it. I was shooting for the rod to balance level right in front of the reel seat, if the handle is shorter, it is more tip down balance. Length is still short than my forearm, but feels a bit long. I might finish the build except temporarily mount the guides on the lower section and give it a try before cutting things off.

Dean, we're talking about cutting 2" from the butt end of the rod and replacing the fighting butt. Your'e talking about moving the reel seat. Two entirely different things.