For my next future build, I am looking for an X-Ray for small cranks, like 1/4 oz squarebills, baby 1-minus and the like. Anyone using the MB733 for this? Like to stay with Xray blanks. The SJ 703 looks interesting also, but looking for mod-fast, fast and NOT EXTRA fast. Thanks.

NEO

Thomas Kaufmann Wrote:
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> NEO
Thomas, My 7" 1" NEO is heck of a rod. But, I tried a KVD 1.0 crank that is 1/4oz and It cast it pretty well, but felt light. Need something a little smaller less powerful and more accurate casting for those smaller baits. I thought about testing my 7' 1" MB-736's some more for it, maybe drop down to 7'.

I have 2 rods built on MB 736 X rays, and I would not consider them a rod for treble hooked lures. The exception would be ripping lip less crankbaits out of weeds. I'm sure it would cast a KVD 1.0 just fine, but IMO it just doesn't have the power curve that you're looking for in a crankbait rod.

I wouldn't concern myself with the blanks action as much as it having the correct power, many think that action affects how well the blank handles trebles. I think the blank is bending well past the area of action difference while fighting the fish. My favorite Long A rod is built on a G Loomis xfast blank, it was also one of my original dropshot rods.

David,
I mostly agree with you. My 3 MB-736's work great for TX rigs. I have 2 at 7' 1" and one at 6' 10". After my builds the action slowed down a bit, and I am very happy with that. I am trying to get away from fast (upper AA's over 75) and if can help it I do not want any x fast. Hope I explaining this somewhat correct, still trying to learn CCS. Anyway, my biggest problem for a few years has been mostly lost fish during the fight/landing. Been trying to figure this out for awhile. One thing I noticed Is a lot of those lost were on X fast action, (quality MFG rods) any single hook or treble hook. Maybe I am not the best at keeping the rod loaded, but one thing is for certain. Since switching over to the X Ray's MB-736, SJ 736, NEO, the AA's are lower and of course have awesome sensitivity. I have a excellent landing ratio now. These rods seem to transition into the power of the rod much better. Not sure how to describe it (hopefully someone here can explain it to me. Can't find much of anything on NFC's site about these rods. Read Point Blanks info on their rods, how close are they to X-Ray? I will test the Mb 736 out for it. It does have a better parabolic action than the SJ 736, but probably will need something else. So, I am looking for x-rays or maybe point blank for smaller cranks with a moderate or moderate fast action. If I need to cut down that is fine with me, but like to stay around 7' length.

Spencer, I am one of those that think action affects how well the blank handles crank baits as well as single hook. The right power and action is what I look for. But, that is what is working for me. Had the right powers in the past, but the wrong action for me to keep them hooked.

Justin, I've done CCS tests for AA and IP on almost every rod I've built. The numbers I came up with for the rods built on MB 736 X ray blanks are an AA of 75, with an IP of 793.

As far as what Spencer said about having the correct power being more important in landing fish on treble hooked baits than having the correct action is concerned, I will agree with that based solely on his mentioning of a jerkbait. And the same would go for a top water lure. They're trebled hooked baits, but top water baits and jerkbaits are more or less slack line baits at the time a fish is taking them. The majority of the time the rod isn't loaded when the fish hits one of those baits, Because of that, the fish has a chance to get the bait deeper into their mouth, and the chance of it being more solidly hooked, is greater.

That is not the case with cast and retrieve lipped, and lip less crankbaits. The majority of the time the rod is under the load of the bait when a fish hits it. That means when the fish hits it the bait is moving and pulling away from the fish. Slower actions don't pull the bait away as quickly, and result in better hooked fish on cast and retrieve crankbaits . I don't think this is true, I know it is true. I've seen the results for myself with fish hooked on the front hook of a bait with the slower action rods I use now, versus fish hooked on the tail hook of a bait., when I used faster action rods.

And Justin, you taking length off the MB 736 blank, especially taking the one down to 6'10" is something I did with the very first rod I built. It was a jerkbait rod. I took an MHX 783 and cut 6" off the butt. I did this so I would still have the stiffer tip to really work a jerkbait, but have a nice parabolic bend into the mid section of the blank under the load of a fish. I also use the rod for top water walking baits, poppers, and prop baits. It's a great rod for it's intended purpose, and keeps hooked fish buttoned up very well. I can't say the same for the few times that I have used it for cast and retrieve crankbaits like squarebills n such. It's my jerkbait and top water rod for a reason.

Thanks David, very good insight. I built 2 SJ-736 at 6' 9" with 8.5" handles. One I use for spinner baits, the other for topwater spook/chub baits. They work great for those lures as you say nice parabolic bend and keep them hooked up. Don't throw a jerkbait much but guessing they would work well for them too. And I agree with you I need one in a more moderate action. Guess I will have to wait for NFC to come out with a X Ray cranking rod for smaller cranks? I am hooked on these X Rays LOL.

Justin, I certainly understand you being hooked on the X ray blanks. They are a phenomenal blank at any price, and at their price now, one might be considered crazy not to stock up on them, but ........... And I know you already know this, but I am going to say it any way. While sensitivity is certainly important when trying to work a squarebill through wood cover, which is something I do, or try to do and a couple of the lakes around me, it (sensitivity) is not a paramount consideration when selecting a crankbait rod blank. At least it isn't for me. I still want a quality blank, but it doesn't have to be a blank like an X ray, or a Point Blank.

The only crankbait rod I've built thus far, and it was the 2nd rod I ever built, I built specifically for throwing squarebills and other shallower running baits, into wood cover, or along rip rap. I don't make long casts with those kind of baits. My squarebill rod is 6' in length because It's easier for me to make more accurate casts to cover. I built it on a Rainshadow RX7 (now their Revelation series) CB 66 MH. Like my jerkbait rod, I trimmed 6" off the butt to achieve the final rod length I was looking for. It's labeled as a moderate fast action blank, and with trimming the 6" from it, I am quite certain (without actual CCS AA numbers) that it would test out as having a moderate action.

I've had the rod 4 or 5 years (can't remember when I started building) and this year is the first year I have ever lost a fish with it. Still don't know how I lost that fish, because it had the bait absolutely choked, but I did. lol Anyhow ... Rainshadows are very high quality blanks. I think you would be doing yourself a big favor if you were to take a look at them.

For a tough, moderate/fast action blank with good power, have you looked at the CTS QuartzCrystal blanks. They are very strong, accurate,and dampen quickly after casting (which helps accuracy). For a glass rod, they are very light as well./ What I like about them is their toughness, and how easy they cast.

I have to admit that I've built on St.Croix graphite blanks from RodGeeks, a very good blank, moderate/fast , . I was impressed. It casts very well also, and has good power.

I agree that a moderate/fast blank is more forgiving when hooking, and bringing in fish, especially if they are soft-mouthed. A little spring in the rod will keep line from snapping if a big fish suddenly takes off. As long as the rod has the power to land that same, big fish. That's the reason I like Winston Fly rods, and CTS Quzrtz Crystalglass. They have lots of backbone (power), while still protecting the hook set and line.

Why I like glass - Caught a 15 lb, or better King Salmon on a light, fiberglass rod with a Mitchel 300 spinning reel. It was fight, and the rod made some funny noises. But it held, and I landed the Chinook. The fish was much larger than the rod was designed for. But it held, and caught many a brookie afterwards.

Tight Lines ad frisky fish

RJF

Thanks for all the comments guys! As always gets me thinking. And I learn a lot. Well, after lots of thought and searching I decided on an ordered a North Fork CB 704-1 (IM LMX) . Hopefully, I made a good choice.