Hello All,
Does anyone have a Video tutorial on applying finish over Rod Labels and long areas. I am still in the Trial and error stages of this process. I have been successful in the rest of my finishing techniques. My Guide wrap finishes are nearly perfect but I still struggle getting Long areas flat. The build I just finished I used Flex coat CP on the Blank before applying labels and applied a coat on the label. They came out ok, but still are not as flat as I would like. The Manufacturer label had some slight adhesion issues near the edges. My Logo Decal ( Decal Connection ) took finish great but the epoxy is not flat. I used 2 very light coats of Gen 4 epoxy, I was going to add a 3rd but wasn’t sure if it would fix it so I let it ride. I considered using one coat of finish prior to applying decals but was concerned it wouldn’t be flat enough.

Thanks

Scott,
Put epoxy down first on the area where the decal is going and let it harden (usually about 8 hours). Apply the decal and put 2 coats of CP over it, making sure to cover the edges. The method I use to apply epoxy on long areas is to load the brush and make linear strokes from one end to the other in a brush width of the radius and then turn the blank and repeat with a slight overlap of the epoxy edge until the area is completely covered. I then turn the blank at about a medium speed and start on one end with the brush tip where the epoxy starts and slowly move to the other end. This will evenly disperse the epoxy. Let the excess drip off the brush and catch it with something. I usually do another coat after that hardens and everything is usually flat. You may need to hit the trim rings a little with the brush tip while turning to help even up the epoxy where the tread is built up. Then stop messing with it and the epoxy will self level while on your dryer turning at around 9 to 12 rpm.
Cheers,
Lance

Scott,
One of the hints that you might try with decal application is to wrap the decal around a dowel, a piece of rod blank or similar round object that is about 1/3rd smaller in diameter than the blank where you are going to use the label. Just take some clear plastic wrap and wrap it over the decal on the dowel or smaller blank section for a few days before removing it and applying it to the actual blank.

The pre wrapping of the decal on the smaller circular section gives the decal a "nice set" that lets the decal really come out nice on the final rod with minimal lifting and nearly perfect application every time.

Best wishes.

Doa search here as this subject has been covered numerous times.

Scott,

I'm a relatively new builder myself and have struggled with this issue as well. As Phil mentions, there are a bunch of threads over the last many years discussing this issue. We aren't alone. There is a video over on the Flex Coat website under Instructional Videos titled "Applying Flex Coat Rod Wrapping Finish". If you jump down to last couple minutes of that video there is some instruction on longer run applications. I don't believe he's dealing with "label" issues though. I have not had issues with label edges or similar but I do apply one coat of Chromaseal over labels. I read Roger's suggestion back when I was just starting about wrapping the label around a dowel to teach it a thing or two and that may be reason for part of my success there (thanks Roger!). I think the biggest issue I have had to overcome is/was not applying my longer run epoxy applications the same every time. There was no method to my madness. I've read most every thread here about eliminating wavy finishes on the longer runs. There are a large number of methods people employ to get a glass like finish (based on my research here). Many, many different ways to do it. I will say, I started using Gen 4 about a month ago and have had minimal issues since. Part of the reason for that could be that I'm simply trying to stick to my game plan a bit better and/or some of my efforts are beginning to reap rewards.

Good Luck.

A few beginners don’t realize that many of the better decals are sandwiched between two layers of plastic which protects the actual decal itself which is very thin and flexible. The bottom layer is removed and this allows the decal to be stuck to the blank, and the top layer protects the decal when you burnish it to the blank. When you finish burnishing, the top piece of plastic is removed and the decal is now stuck in place and really doesn’t require a layer of CP, or anything else before adding a coat of epoxy. Cp won’t hurt but in most cases is not necessary. Some people don’t realize that there is this second piece of plastic on top of the decal and thus don’t remove it. So when they apply the finish the corners will lift. It not the fault of the decal but the fault of the user not removing the top piece of protective plastic before adding epoxy. Just a thought on why so many people have problems with decals lifting. It happened to me a long time ago.
Norm

absolutely make sure that when applying the decal, whatever kind of decal you use, that you trim the decal, and round all corners. Press all of the edges firmly to the blank before removing the tape. Do not touch the decal itself. I just applied a decal purchased from Mudhole last night. I thought I followed all of the above listed precautions. When I put the epoxy on to cover, I found that the bottom edge of the fecal hadn't been pressed down firmly to the blank, just the very edge. It lifted ever so slightly when the epoxy was applied. I can see the decal edge on that side. On all other sides, the edges are invisible. Will it affect the holding power of the epoxy, or degrade rod function,; no. But it does degrade the aesthetics a little. Moral of the story, pay extra attention to putting the decal onto the blank. You will be rewarded with a great l;looking decal.
If this rod was to be sold, I would have used alcohol to remove the epoxy, and the decal, cleaned the blank, and applied a new decal. Since this rod is for me, I will say that it's good enough.

Tight lines and frisky fish

RJF

Thanks to everyone for their responses.