Am the only person having problems wrapping past the barb on the single foot of the two foot KW model.
As I wrap past the barb the thread "falls" down the barb and is very difficult to pack.
I have been filing the barb so it is more gentle.
I never thought of mentioning it to Donny at Anglers Resource - but even if I did - I doubt if Fuji factory would correct it.
It is a real PITA.
Had to vent.
Herb
CTS

I have a terrible time, but I have only done 3 rods, I have to wrap high up on the foot and work the threads back down, a few at a time. i cant for the life of me make the thread transition up on the foot from the blank, I have to angle the thread to the middle of the foot and keep working the thread down after 3-4 wraps and continue this until I can get the thread packed tight with no gaps. But again I am a complete rookie and dont know what I am doing. However the rod I just finished today turned out really nice. I just dont know how the threads will hold up in the long run, the finish turned out nice and I just used cork seal for the first time also.

Keith Langford

Yep I have the same problems as described especially on larger stripping guides. But Fuji claims no locking wraps necessary on smaller runners.

That is s common problem with other guides as well, my solution (for me) is to grind and blend the barb so there isn't a such a large transition. I also grind and blend the end of the foot to a fine taper. In addition I wrap Emory paper around a mandrel and dress the underside of the guide feet so the guide better saddles the blank A sharpie is used to cover the grind areas. It requires a little extra effort but the results are well worth it.

I have received no reports of failures on any of the rods I have made.

John,
That is what I do also - all the above - but it shouldn't be necessary .
I use Eze-lap diamond files in Medium to do the rough work on the feet And then smooth it a bit with a well worn Eze-lap that is now more like a fine. Then I use 1500 - 2000 grit wet or dry to smooth. But it is hard to do that in the barb area without abrading the leg further up from the foot.
Like I said - shouldn't be necessary.

WHAT DO YOU USE TO TAPER THE BARB?
Herb

Guys

I like the "barb" shape on the guide foot! Its what helps keep the guide pulling out from under the wrap without using a locking wrap at the end of the guide. I use a medium "flexi-file" to take the shine off of the top surface of the guide foot (less thread slip). I wrap 3 or 4 passes of thread past the barb and then push the wraps back toward the barb. The thread seems to stay in place on the barb shape a little better.It works out well for me.

Rog

All,
Actually, I have 0 issues with this type guides. In fact I like the guides because the design of the foot really helps to minimize thread from slipping back off the foot of the guide.

A couple of things:
I use a 1x30 belt sander used with a guide holding tool to essentially thin the outer end of the guide foot to near 0 thickness. I always start the thread on the blank and simply wrap up the guide foot and 0 issues since there is not a steep incline on the extreme end of the guide foot.

Also, when I do the sanding, I am sanding with the belt sander at 90 degrees to the length of the guide foot with 220 grip paper. I believe that ultra smooth guide foot surface is neither needed nor desired. Rather, I have sanding scratches that run across the guide foot and tend to act as thread keepers to keep the thread tight and well packed. I always power wrap and I seldom have to pack the thread because the thread is tight when wrapped.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

[www.harborfreight.com]

The fixture that I have made is a flat headed machine screw of a size that will fit through the guide ring. The holder is a piece of blank material that is long enough to hold and of a size that will accommodate the machine screw. I use a wing nut on the end of the fixture and cut the machine screw so that it only requires about 2 turns of the wing nut to hold the guide securely to the fixture before holding the guide against the belt sander for prep.

p.s.
I keep a fine grit Arkansas stone beside the sander when prepping guides. As the final prep on the guide foot, I make about two passes on the underside of the guide foot to be sure that there are not any fine shards of metal that might come down and affect the contact of the guide foot and the rod blank.

I also have no problems wrapping these guides, but I’m not using 00 silk thread like you use. I’m pretty sure this is the major reason for your problem. I think that if you want to use really thin thread then your only option is to prep the guides or use a different brand of guide. I don’t think the KW guides were designed to be wrapped with a thin silk thread.
Norm

Herb,

I use a Dremel and mini conical stone.

You are right some of what I do is not necessary, but I have do it for my own satisfaction.


Roger W

You are a gem, it has been a long time since I heard a reference to an Arkansas stone , I have several and they are very useful.

Thanks
John

Roger T.
I am talking about the KW double foot guides. Don't need a barb at all.

Norman,
I use nylon "A" thread to wrap my stripper and 2nd guide.

Roger W.
How can the thread back off the guide foot - with or without a barb??

Herb

My bad Herb, I just remembered a bunch of your posts stating you used Makoi silk thread. I just assumed you used it on all guides. So now I don’t know what the problem is. I use A and B thread without a problem, and don’t prep the guides. Maybe too much thread tension might be an issue.
Norm

Once you are past the "barb" just a few turns, you're "locking" the guide good enough for 99% of the stresses you'll encounter. Try loosening the turns that are coming down the backside of the barb and then tightening the last two (or so) turns on the wrap. That way, you can use the tight wraps to close the gaps on the loose threads when you pack. Not going too far with the thread also helps keep an epoxy "web" from forming which can pop away from the blank surface under load and cause "clicking" or create a micro space for moisture. Works for me. No prep.

Hi Norm,
I do use Makoi "00" on y runners - but in nylon.
I did try Silk in "00" when I couldn't find "00" nylon. never wrapped a rod to completion with silk though.
Now I'm good to go with the nylon.
Herb

I always find answers on the forum, thanks all.
I was having problems getting tight wraps near the barb on the double foot K guides, mainly on the ring size 16 -12.
This was on a tuna jigging rod.
Using black D thread over an under wrap A, on silver guides; the gaps near the barb showed.
I tried wrapping the D up and down the foot, loose and tight, and prepping the guide more aggressively- not satisfied.
Finally, I tried using an overwrap of A thread to tighten the D wraps and it worked great.
Maybe old news to more experienced wrappers, but thought I would share it.
Take care,
Tony