I've seen about a bizillion posts here asking about guide spacing/placement.

Most of the answers by the experts say to use a 'static stress distribution test' (or some combination of these words, I'll assume you are all talking about the same thing) to find the optimum guide placement.

There is also usully an adviso to 'do a search' on this site to find out how to do this.

I've done so, but I can't find 'instructions' anywhere. I DO, however, get all of the posts where the advice to do this are listed.

I've read here that the next issue of Rodmaker will have instructions for making a device to help with guide placement. The 'pre-issue' information I've seen sounds pretty interesting, and as soon as I get the issue, I'll enjoy reading it.

In the meantime, should I wait for the next issue and use this 'new' method, or can anyone point me to 'instructions' for the 'static stress distribution test' that is mentioned so often here.

Perhaps I misunderstood, and there is a place to 'search' that is different from the 'search' function at the top of this message board.

Thanks for all of the help. I truly enjoy this site, great information.

Buddy

Dear Buddy: What you are looking for is a static deflection test. There are many ways to go about this, and everyones answer will probably be a little different. But they all get the same results. Finding the spine on a blank is the first step. After the spine is located, you know where on the blank the guides will go. This is not guide spacing. Static deflection determines guide spacing. Info for static deflection can be found in Advanced Custom Rodbuilding (Clemens). The theory of it and the mechanics of it. At the last Rodcrafters Seminar Don Morton did a three hour demonstration of it. Theory and mechanics!

What is meant by a "static stress distribution test" is to locate the guides by means of loading the blank and distributing the guides so that the line closely follows the curve of the flexed blank and distributes the stress evenly.

The best way to do this is to affix a tip-top to the blank and fasten the butt in a stand or similar device (or have somebody hold it). Now tie down the tip, or suspend a weight from it that will allow the blank to accept a decent load - put it in a good flex approximating what can be expected when fighting a fish. Space your guides along it (use can use a spacing chart for rough approximate spacing just to get you going here) and then run a line through the guides. Notice how the line flows compared to the blank.

Adjust your guides so that you eliminate any flat spots or large gaps in line flow. You may need to add a guide, or move a few guides, to get what you are after. My book, Rod Building Guide, goes into more detail and has some photos to help you out with this.

The July/August 2000 issue of RodMaker had info on the New Guide Concept and how to set that up, but a quick static test is still required in order to make sure things came out right.

The next issue of RodMaker will have Don Morton's Equal Angle guide system. It is not completely new, as it is only one of several systems that allows you place guides directly on the blank with the blank's specific taper taken into account. But it may well be the fastest method for doing so. In effect, it does the same thing as the static distribution test without all the time involved. I believe it will be in widespread use very soon.

There is no "correct" place to locate the guides relative to the spine. There are several options and each one results in maximizing a different performance characteristic from each individual blank. Do a search on rod spine and I know you will find much information on that topic here!

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Lincoln and Tom,

Thanks for your info. I kind of thought that was what you were referring to.

It does seem to take some time, but when I tried it, I did find that moving the guides around a bit made a huge difference in how the line 'tracked' with the bend of the rod.

I was setting up a 9' 5 wt. fly rod, and found that adding one 'extra' guide more than I had originally intended had a significant impact in how the line flowed with the rod. Even though the guides don't have the regimented taper in the spacing that using a chart or formula provides, the overall 'look' seems nicer as well. More like art than mechanics.

I also added the 'extra stripper' guide to this rod. When I made a few test casts, even with this relatively 'light' weight rod, there was a significant improvement in shooting distances.

I think I'm finally 'getting it' as far as the differences between 'custom' and just wrapping some guides on a blank. And THAT is due soley to this site!

Thanks again,

Buddy

And the nice thing is that once you understand how to do this sort of thing, you will never again be confronted by the problem of guide spacing - you know how to figure it out for any blank you will ever come across without having to rely on a chart or formula.

Very glad that you have received some benefit from this site.

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