Got a project I am thinking over before I dive into it. Got a MHX ST 1081, well half of it. Broke the upper section in a couple spots. The blank is discontinued can't find one looking for awhile now. The blank was 9 foot light action mod fast. The butt section is fine and has some intricate handle work that I want to save which is the only reason I am thinking about this.

Here is what I am thinking. I have the ferrule section of the tip section about 16 inches ferrule is undamaged. I would like to take another blank fit the ferrule section of the original blank to it to replace the tip section. I want to come out around the same length. I know I will have to do some research to find a blank with a O.D. similar to the I.D. of my remaining blank. I am wondering what limitations do I need to keep in mind.

How much of new blank should be inside the old blank section? Should I try and fit the blank so it basically meets up with the ferrule? Or is it better the have some space between the ferrule and the butt of the new section? Will it make a difference as to what action the new blank is? How much of the ferrule section should be wrapped? Any need for internal support in the new blank?

Appreciate any advice and please let me know if there is something I did not think about.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 07/02/2020 03:18AM by Michael Sutheimer.

Michael,
Do you have all of the pieces of the first rod? If so, just splice the pieces together and go fishing.

If not, just put a new tip section on your broken 1/2 such that you get at least three inches of the new tip section over the current butt section and you will be good to go.

Obviously, you want to use a tip section that matches your former tip section.

Take care

Check with Mudhole/MHX to see if they have a tip section in stock. They sell tip sections for all of their two piece blanks, but they are not listed in their online catalog, so call them.
I have repaired numerous broken rods by gluing a replacement tip from another broken rod in place. The problem is you want a section of blank that matches the flex of the original rod. In order to do this, you need access to a bunch of tip sections from broken rods. I have a large stash of broken rods but most builders do not. With this in mind, I start by finding a tip section that will fit over the broken end. When one is found, I will put a bend in the rod by pushing the tip against the ceiling. I’m looking for a nice smooth curve, without a flat spot or an abnormal looking bend. If you find a piece that fit the criteria, I will try to have the connection point to fall where a guide will be placed, this makes the connection almost unnoticeable. This may require trimming back the old blank or the tip to get the joint where you want it. You want about a 3”” overlap. In most cases when you find the appropriate tip section, it will usually make the rod longer than the original by about 3” to 6”, as stated by Roger. The repaired rod will function and hold up very well.
Norm