Is D size thread a lot easier to work with than A, and can it be used on micro guides and if I used D for my wrapping would the trim bands need to be D also. I ask because I am currently wrapping my crankbait rod and I am really struggling, one it's the first time using the alps thread carrier and two first time using black thread and really having a hard time seeing it. I cant seem to get the tension right for the thread carrier, its either two loose or too tight, still working on that part, but I have learned quickly tension is key for making the jump over the guide. Be mindful this is only my 3rd rod build.

Keith Langford

Keith,
You speak of visibility of the thread and working with the dark thread.

A couple of questions.

Do you have very very very bright light over the particular guide that you are working on.
The recommended level of light for detail inspection work - which is what wrapping fishing rod guides is 12X the level for normal office work.

i.e. it is to your advantage to have a very bright light that is close to and off to one side of the guide that you are working on, so that the guide is essentially illuminated with a very very bright light.

The 2nd thing is whether you are using at least 2X magnification on the area where you are working.

For virtually all of the many rods that I have wrapped over the years, I have used a head band magnifier that has the ability to hold a 1.5, 2, or 3X magnifier lense in the head band. I typically u se either 2x or 2.5x magnification, along with very very bright light over the guide being wrapped.

For exampl

e:

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Magnifier:

[www.amazon.com]

If you happen to wear glasses, you can wear your glasses with no obstruction with the above listed magnifier.

-------------
If you don't wear glasses, then you might want to go with one of the head band magnifiers with integrated LED lighting.

[www.amazon.com]

The key with any of these magnifiers is that the lens are away from the eye to insure that you have correct magnification - at the right focal distance or working distance from your eyes to your work.

You don't want to have to be working 2-4 inches from your work when building rods. Rather 18 to 24 inches is the normal working distance for most folks when building rods.

I personally used D sized thread on a couple of rods when first starting, because the larger thread was easier to work with. But, after that, for all of the years and rods since then, I have used only A sized thread because it simply does a much better job that is nicer looking for the vast majority of fresh water rods.

Eye magnification and excellent intense lighting of your work area are the two key items to easily building mistake free rods.

Best wishes.

Size D is easier to wrap than A. For the same length wrap there is very little difference in weight or strength, and once finished they are hard to tell apart apart, especially with black. You can certainly use size A trim with a size D main wrap. Good lighting is important, and for me reading glasses are quite helpful.
Norm

Thank you Roger, I do not have good lighting, so I will fix that and I do not have magnification so I will fix that also. I didnt have a problem really with the CRB hand wrapper and Red thread. I an really trying to like this Alps thread carriage but it is not working as well so far as the other, tension wise. Guess I should have practiced with it before actually wrapping my rod. I am also doing trim bands and locking wraps for the first time. I have done 5 of the 10 guides so far but I had to start over on 3 of the 5 a couple times.

Keith,
May I ask why you want to use the Alps thread carriage.

In reality, is there any reason to have a thread carriage that holds more than one spool of thread?

If not, then don't use the Alps thread that you don't like using.

Millions of rods are built every day, with a single thread spool holder with only one spool of thread on the holder.

Many folks who do trim wraps, never use a thread carriage for the trim wraps. Rather, they just take piece of thread and use their hands to hold tension on the trim wraps as they are being completed.

For example:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is the same tensioner that I built many years ago and have used it to build the many many rods that I have made over the years. 0 issues with tension and 0 issues with the thread. No, I do not use metallic thread with this tensioner.

I use a formica topped rod bench and the base of the tensioner is nylon. So, there is next to no friction on the wrapper as it slides down the rod.

Best wishes

Keith,
May I ask why you want to use the Alps thread carriage.

In reality, is there any reason to have a thread carriage that holds more than one spool of thread?

If not, then don't use the Alps thread that you don't like using.

Millions of rods are built every day, with a single thread spool holder with only one spool of thread on the holder.

Many folks who do trim wraps, never use a thread carriage for the trim wraps. Rather, they just take piece of thread and use their hands to hold tension on the trim wraps as they are being completed.

For example:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is the same tensioner that I built many years ago and have used it to build the many many rods that I have made over the years. 0 issues with tension and 0 issues with the thread. No, I do not use metallic thread with this tensioner.

I use a formica topped rod bench and the base of the tensioner is nylon. So, there is next to no friction on the wrapper as it slides down the rod.

Best wishes

Keith,
May I ask why you want to use the Alps thread carriage.

In reality, is there any reason to have a thread carriage that holds more than one spool of thread?

If not, then don't use the Alps thread that you don't like using.

Millions of rods are built every day, with a single thread spool holder with only one spool of thread on the holder.

Many folks who do trim wraps, never use a thread carriage for the trim wraps. Rather, they just take piece of thread and use their hands to hold tension on the trim wraps as they are being completed.

For example:
[www.rodbuilding.org]

This is the same tensioner that I built many years ago and have used it to build the many many rods that I have made over the years. 0 issues with tension and 0 issues with the thread. No, I do not use metallic thread with this tensioner.

I use a formica topped rod bench and the base of the tensioner is nylon. So, there is next to no friction on the wrapper as it slides down the rod.

Best wishes

Keith, have you tried size B thread yet..it,s diameter is right between A and D..because of my poor vision i tried D but then tried B later..i,m still with B thread..give it a try..it,s a little less bulkier wrap and CP penetrates like using A thread..you can hardly tell a difference but easier to see..

Okay, thank you Ben

Roger is spot on and has all the coolest wrapping equipment. I do a lot of micro guide rods and have done many with D size, I do prefer the A size because I can get a few more wraps with it and it makes a smaller locking wrap. I have tried head mounted magnifiers but they are a little uncomfortable for me so I have a couple of the lighted round lens type mounted on either end of my work table. [catalog.lightingspecialties.com]