Made a rookie mistake installing my first Fuji vss seat, I installed the kit using the longer grip as my foregrip so the locking hood would be in the rear aka unlocking. I failed to wait for the glue to dry on the hood and the end of the cork cover the hood stuck to my blank. Was able to get it free but broke off 1/3 of the rear grip. That I plan on just cutting to make it look even but my issue is the dried glue residue on the exposed blank in the rear of the seat. Looking for solutions suggestions, open to any advice thank you

Jeremey,
I would just use a bit of gentle heat to scrape off the glue residue. When you do this it will likely remove some of the rod finish. If that is the case, I would just do a continuous thread wrap in the area to cover the scraped area. i.e. if you are not needing a grip in that area. If you need a grip in that area and you can add a new grip section from the butt end of the rod, I would do that. Need to do some shaping to get the perfect fit, but it can be done.

The other option, that might be the best option would be to slice open the remaining rear grip, clean up the blank and install a new rear grip from the butt of the rod - assuming that there is nothing behind the grip that you want to install. You will have to build up the rod blank a bit to insure that you have a constant diameter. I would just use a couple of wraps or more as needed with masking tape to make the blank uniform. Then, ream out the new grip to be a constant diameter coat the inside of the grip with glue and the rod blank with glue and slip it into place. Then, wipe off the excess with a paper towel and soak another towel with denatured alcohol to remove any other residual uncured glue from the surface and you should be good to go.

By the way, you did not have a problem or make a mistake. You were just obtaining an education by creating a problem and then coming up with a solution.

Folks pay big money for an education. In this case, it will likely only cost you the price of a new grip.

Take care

roger wilson Wrote:
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> Jeremey,
> I would just use a bit of gentle heat to scrape
> off the glue residue. When you do this it will
> likely remove some of the rod finish. If that is
> the case, I would just do a continuous thread wrap
> in the area to cover the scraped area. i.e. if
> you are not needing a grip in that area. If you
> need a grip in that area and you can add a new
> grip section from the butt end of the rod, I would
> do that. Need to do some shaping to get the
> perfect fit, but it can be done.
>
> The other option, that might be the best option
> would be to slice open the remaining rear grip,
> clean up the blank and install a new rear grip
> from the butt of the rod - assuming that there is
> nothing behind the grip that you want to install.
> You will have to build up the rod blank a bit to
> insure that you have a constant diameter. I would
> just use a couple of wraps or more as needed with
> masking tape to make the blank uniform. Then, ream
> out the new grip to be a constant diameter coat
> the inside of the grip with glue and the rod blank
> with glue and slip it into place. Then, wipe off
> the excess with a paper towel and soak another
> towel with denatured alcohol to remove any other
> residual uncured glue from the surface and you
> should be good to go.
>
> By the way, you did not have a problem or make a
> mistake. You were just obtaining an education by
> creating a problem and then coming up with a
> solution.
>
> Folks pay big money for an education. In this
> case, it will likely only cost you the price of a
> new grip.
>
> Take care

Thanks Roger I was thinking of trying some heat and yes I was planning on wrapping over it with a tiger wrap pattern. I ended up trimming down the rear grip with a razor, now it needs some sanding

I mount the VSS seat down locking, with the no thread hood facing forward toward the tip. I do this because in the up locking position I find that the hood loosens way too much for my liking. I glue the seat in place, and after cured I then screw on the hood. Done this way you will never accidentally glue the hood to the seat or the blank. So if you replace the seat or on your next build try it in the down locking position.
Norm

Norman Miller Wrote:
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> I mount the VSS seat down locking, with the no
> thread hood facing forward toward the tip. I do
> this because in the up locking position I find
> that the hood loosens way too much for my liking.
> I glue the seat in place, and after cured I then
> screw on the hood. Done this way you will never
> accidentally glue the hood to the seat or the
> blank. So if you replace the seat or on your next
> build try it in the down locking position.
> Norm
I know that’s how most people mount the vss but I have bigger hands and it fits more comfortable up locking for me.