Mr. Kirkman,
I agree with your statement.

However, I will also agree with Trung, that chucks using the johnny bar system to get them tight do not maintain their tension as well as the machine shop chucks that have the rotary key in the sides of the chuck.

The keys in the sides of the chuck employ a worm gear type tightening system that does not slip.

However, the johnny bar system can sometimes back off a bit, due to their design.

---
I will also say that I own about 6 of the Taig chucks that Trung has on his lathe and for rod work, they all work wonderfully well.

I will also use one from time to time on my lathe, but typically NOT when holding a mandrel.

Then, I will go with one of the side key type machine shop chucks that work better for me - with this use.

Take care

Trung Diep Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------

> Anyone know the model number for Nova G3 chuck? Do
> I need to get an adapter for it?


It appears your lathe has a 1" 8tpi spindle same as mine. Below is the model that is a direct fit. Bear in mind this is a wood working chuck with interchangeable Jaws. For mandrel work I don't install any jaws. It also only closes to about .180-.200". It is a very versatile chuck for mini lathes.

Nova Lathes 48246 NOVA G3 Chuck 30th Anniversary Bundle

The Nova 3 also allows through headstock work. I have squared up tip sections that had unevenly cut ferrules by drilling a wine cork in the lathe jaws then passing the rod section through the cork and tightening the jaws for a snug hold.

I happen to own a few lathes (8) and have at least 2 chucks for each one of them. There are lots of ways to chuck up a steel mandrel and all will work unless you ask the chuck to do something that it can't. I've used the Taig chuck with steel mandrels for many years and have yet to have one slip. But my mandrels have a shoulder on them so tailstock pressure can't push them back into the chuck. This is the real problem here and the fix is a lot simpler than buying a new chuck. On the other hand, there's nothing wrong with owning another chuck or a collet set.

.............

Thanks Roger / Tom for all the great info.


Thanks for the info Jonathan....I will look into it.

I also want it to be clear to both Trung and Tom. I am not in disagreement with Tom at all. Tom's advice is on point. I have a chuck similar to the Taig from grizzly I use on the same lathe for different reasons.

If you were to take my advice though I would buy a mandrel saver over a new chuck. Drill stops or a mandrel with a shoulder should fix your primary issue. Personal from my years of experience on a lathe I want to keep my work between the head and tailstock as short as possible. With a through headstock Chuck and a mandrel saver I could have a 6" grip centered on a 24" mandrel and have the head and tailstock touch either side of the grip at the same time with no risk of mandrel deflection from tailstock pressure. This results in less deflection issues.

Drill stop is by far your most economical solution and you should have a set around anyway, they come in usefut often.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/15/2020 07:13PM by Jonathan Hotham.

Jonathan

I have purchased the drill stop sets. Should arrive next week or so.

The issue happen to me three times to the point I'm very paranoid using the lathe. So scary when the mandrel get loose at high speed.

So basically I'm gonna either purchase the Penn State collet sets or the Nova G3. I am convinced I will not use the Taig chuck anymore.


Thanks Everyone for all the great info. Very much appreciated.

Stay Safe and Happy Wrapping

Trung

The chuck is not the problem. I have more than a little experience in these matters.


.........

Trung,
Just wondering what you use to tighten your Taig chuck.

I often find that the dolly bars, or the johnny bars - depending on what you call them may be rather short.

I like to use drill rod or piano wire of the correct diameter for a tight fit into the holes used to adjust the chuck and make them about a foot long.

Particularly when using the chuck with metal, I am just wondering if perhaps you are not getting them tight.

Also, just as a case of wonderment, are the insides of your chuck clean and lubricated with light oil? Again, the reason that I ask this, is perhaps your chuck is slipping because it might be binding a bit due to internal contamination when you get to a certain size on the chuck adjustment that the contamination is not allowing you to properly adjust the chuck.

Bottom line - if you hold the head stock shaft and then insert an adjusting bar into the part of the chuck that rotates, can you open and fully close the chuck with no binding or catching anywhere? If you do have even a tiny bit of binding, the chuck needs to be disassembled and cleaned up. With the chuck apart, you want to be able to take each jaw - resting in its particular track and be able to move the jaw the full distance in and out without binding. These chucks are precision instruments and need to be worked on very carefully with no enlarging the tracks or no filing down a jaw foot that may affect the overall operation of the chuck.

I own several of the Taig chucks. I had one chuck in particular that was giving me some grief by a singular tight spot in the chuck adjustment. I think that I spent about 4 hours checking and cleaning and learning about the chuck before I was finally able to get the chuck back to its perfect operating condition.

For my power wrappers and for some of my wrappers, the Taig chucks are the only chucks I use.

On the lathes, even though I have used the Taig chucks with an adapter, I do prefer the convenience and ease of use with a side key operated metal lathe chuck.

======================================
Here is a very good video on the disassembly, cleaning and reassembly of a Taig chuck.
You might want to go to the link and print out the entire process. Pictures really help:

[www.cartertools.com]

Mr. Kirkman,
I agree that if the Taig chuck is working correctly and if it is made tight correctly the chuck will not slip on the mandrel.

But, if the chuck is not working correctly or if it is hanging up on an internal problem , or if the bars to tighten the chuck are not working properly the chuck could be the problem.

Before getting my back plates modified to work on my lathe for the machine shop chucks, I used the Taig chucks with no issue.

Take care.

The tightness of the chuck isn't the problem.

..........

Thanks Tom


Roger,

I use the round bars that was supplied for the Taig chuck. I tight them pretty tight but still slips. Tom is correct, I would need a shoulder stop. Is the reason why I just purchased the drill stops.

But in the end I would feel safer if purchased a Penn State collet sets or a Nova G3 which is a key to use to tighten up .

A nice demo for a G3 chuck:

[www.youtube.com]

I use a collet chuck from Penn State and a drill chuck on the tail stock end. Not had any issues with safety of the mandrel coming loose.

[www.pennstateind.com]

David,
I think that your selection of the Collet type system is about the best possible choice for this application.

Take care

Thanks Roger and David

David

Is there a video out there how to use the collet sets?



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 05/18/2020 03:47PM by Trung Diep.

Trung,
Easy.
Select the correct size collet for the rod / mandrel that you are going to insert into your head stock. Place the collet in the nut for the head stock shaft. Run the nut down and then, do a final adjustment on your mandrel / rod length. Then, using the lock on your head stock do a final tightening on the head stock collet nut.

One thing that is very nice about using the collet system is that it is SMALL. i.e the nut is about 1 1/2 inches in diameter and that is all that is sticking out from the end of the head stock, so you can do some very close work to the head stock on your grip being turned and you have little to worry about - by not having a large chuck that may come along and bark you on your fingers or knucles.

Take care

[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

[www.youtube.com]

Thanks Roger

Happy Wrapping