I've been wrapping graphite and glass fly rods as a hobby for more than 20 years: probably 70-80 rods. I've always used "high build" mostly Flex Coat, and for the most part my rods have turned out well. Except for an occasional "touch up" I've only finished with a single coat. But I'm thinking of trying a 2 coat finish using ThreadMaster light. I've heard very good reports about using two coats with this epoxy, and recently saw a rod completed by an amateur hobbyist with the 2 coat, lite finish. It was perfect.

So I'm looking for some instruction. My thought is a first coat just enough to cover the wrap, then a heavier coat about a day later. But maybe I have it backwards. I certainly don't want to end up with a football, or an extra heavy finish. I know there are many on this board that successfully use a two coat finish. Please advise.

Thanks, Jack

I use TM lite and the first coat is what I would call about like I would do with the higher build. Then I follow with a light coat, especially concentrating on the areas where the first coat was not enough.

Jack,
I anticipate you receiving quite a few replies. In the grand scheme of things, one, two or multiple coats of thread finish is a personal preference; there is not a correct of wrong number of coats. Obviously, one coat requires the least amount of time. Beside personal preference, there are a number of factors which may dictate the need of additional coats. The most common is probably the simple desire to have a cosmetically perfect smooth lens encapsulating the thread wraps as found on the majority of store-bought offerings. Thread nubs and other imperfections can be the cause for an additional cover-up coat. There are certainly other reasons to apply more than one coat of thread finish, and I suppose the longer one builds rods, the longer the list becomes.
There is a lot to be said for applying the least amount (one coat) of thread finish to the wraps of a rod. First and foremost is less weight which is paramount, especially the closer to the tip of the rod with its cantilevered effect, to allow the blank to flex and recover as close as possible to if it were in its naked state. This is certainly more pronounced, prevalent and prudent with a trout rather than a tuna rod!
After trying some high-build epoxies, I have reverted to regular or light versions; they typically flow-out/level, release bubbles better and have a longer pot life. Basically, I apply one coat of thread finish for my freshwater trout builds but glob it on the saltwater builds to protect the threads against abrasion and salt. While I still may employ the high-builds from time to time, I am not a volume builder, so the additional time required for numerous coats is personally a mood point but may deserve consideration by others.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

If you are happy with Flex Coat, why not use the Flex Coat Lite and use two coats. It''s a fine finish.

Excellent video

[youtu.be]

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Eric
[www.emfishing.fr]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/03/2020 04:01AM by Eric MONTACLAIR.

I use ThreadMaster Hi 99% of the time. I did try the TM Lite the other day on an old rod as an experiment. I see no benefit to the Lite.
I mostly use a 2 coat finish with my TH Hi.
I apply a liberal coat. Then when I'm sure it's soaked through I remove the finish down to the threads. That gets the wraps as slim s possible and also causes any "fuzzies" that may be in the thread to lay-down. I let the epoxy go beyond the tacky stage. I then apply a thin finishing coat.

I'm not a production builder so I am not bothered with the extra time.
Herb

Jack

It's different strokes for different folks. Here's another way.

Mix 3 ml of TM lite resin with 3 ml of hardener for 3 minutes. Add 1 ml of acetone and mix for another 2 minutes. Apply enough to thoroughly wet the wraps and no more. Individual turns of thread will be just visible. Let cure. Then apply a mix of 3 ml each resin and hardener. Individual turns of thread ought not be visible. Rotate 180 degrees every two minutes for 30 minutes watching carefully for sags and wicking away any that form. After 30 minutes let a rod dryer do the work.

This works for me using silk on light to mid weight fly rods. Your milage might vary.

I do two light coats of FC High Build and it comes out great almost every time. The second coat is for leveling and cover misc. tag ends, or other flaws that come through in the first coat. I just keep it simple / stupid.

Here is another video slightly on topic.

[www.youtube.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com