I know i know.. But i just had a thought and want to make sure i didnt just screw myself..

So we established that crystalized thread epoxy is ok to reuse once reheated and de-crystalized..

My question is since only half the epoxy crystalized, if i were to transfer the still liquid epoxy into another bottle of epoxy (better 1 full the 2 half) and leave the crystalized portion in the original bottle, would i basically be like seperating alcohol from water by freezing? Inadvertently making the epoxy take on adverse (or perhaps better) characteristics? In other words, if the crystalized epoxy is concidered 'pure' did i just take all the 'impurities' out?

Probably a stupid question.. But im just curious now.. Lol

No, it'd be fine, but you'd still want to heat and remove the crystalization from from the full bottle before attempting to mix and use it.

........

i,m not sure Anthony but i think it,s like separating ice from the water..both parts are the same just in a different state..

I figured as much... Just wanted to make sure i didnt do a whopsy lol

And i do tom, just dont want to have to keep fussing with it, theres always that portion that doesnt crystalize in there. Tired of heating it up every time.. Figured id just save it for a rainy day.

Thanks guys..

And ben, good analogy.. I like it lol

maybe someone from flex coat will answer also..

Ive become somewhat of a friend of Gabriel over at Hitena USA, its hitena that is crystalizing on me, but its damn good epoxy.. I love the stuff.
I still havent gotten any flexcoat to try out, its hard to change what works sometimes.. Back to Gabrial, i would have just asked him, but figured its possible others may have the same question at some point.. So what better place to ask

i,ve tried other epoxies but then when i need more i go back to flexcoat, so easy to work with..are you using a lite or heavy hitena..what do you like about it compared to other epoxy..thanks Anthony.

Store it in a warmer place where it wont crystalize

Phil,
I don't know that storage temperature has much to do with the material to crystallize.

All of my material is stored in an area that is typically between 60 and 70 degrees. Yet virtually every batch of material that I have had around for more than a year, has typically crystallized in the one part.

I would call it a high build to be honest.. Its good to go in 8 hrs, i can vouch that it will relevel and accidents that occur within 2 hours off mixing.. I once had a rod drying behind where i was wrapping, a thread tag cought the epoxy and started to bind on the guide at about 1 hour and 45 min. Leveled out perfectly.. I think it was better then before even lol it accepts heat very well too.. Ive scorched my share of wraps being over zealous... Prokote for example seems to leave a almost rubbery non slip feel, hitena does not... In my opinion it has a slick rock hard feel, trust me it has plenty of flex though.. I dont know what it is about it but it just clicked the first time i used it for lacl of better words.. If you haven't ever tried it, Gabriel might be willing to send a sample.. Dont take my word for it though, i dont work there :)

Roger and phil..

Phil i store my epoxy in a location that doesnt go below 65, or over 85 (hopefully) i asked Gabrial about crystalization and i cant remember if Norm or Gabrial said it, but epoxy wants to be hard at room temperature, when you have crystalization its a sign that you have a pure product.

What ive gathered is its a good thing, but is lacking the necessary chemicals to keep it soft until hardener is introduced.. Theres enough in the mixture that it doesn't harden, only crystalize.. Hence the need for a hardener.. What i find interesting is thread epoxy is a thermoreaction, meaning it crates heat to harden.. So why do the crystals melt when heat is introduced?

I went on Yahoo searched on "Crystallization of Epoxy" and found a number of articles by Epoxy manufactures describing what is crystallization how its formed solutions to restore and recommended storage conditions.

I copied this and it found it interesting.

"Crystals can be eliminated by increasing the temperature of the liquid resin to about 50°C (about 122°F) until all signs of the crystals are gone. We suggest checking the material at 10 minutes, at 20 minutes, at 30 minutes, and at 1 hour. Typically, it takes only 20-40 minutes to eliminate crystals and fully return the epoxy to a clear liquid, but it could take several hours. (Note that this low-temperature heat treatment does not damage the epoxy or impact its material properties. Also, the epoxy won’t cure, because you have not yet mixed the material.). Allow the resin to cool to room temperature, then proceed to use normally. It can be stored in its original packaging for later use".


To minimize crystallization, the general consensus from all the articles is to store the epoxy at a temperature of 25C (77F) or above.

Just passing on what I have read.

Ok, thats a good response.. I always forget about that Google thing.. Although i can spend 24 hrs on the same topic and never get the same answer twice.. My last google headache is trying to find a compression insert for a dip pen, (im a custom pen turner as well) you type in 'dip pen' or 'nib holder' and you get a million pages on fountain pens.. Not dip pens..

Good info though.. The previous was litterally what i conceive in my mind.. Nothing more. However that still doesnt explain what only part of a bottle might crystalize and not the whole thing, unless the purity thing is true as well..
Thank you for the info.. And i eventually did find inserts for custom dip pens by the way lol

Good luck with your search. Try Flexcoat.