Getting ready to build a rod drying cabinet as my basement workshop stays low 60’s most of the time and there is a HVAC vent right over the bench

Still sorting out dimensions for a 4 rod cabinet but thinking 18” y’all and 10-12” deep - by 10’ long or so - will hang on slatwall above the bench and have a plexiglass or Lexan front

Trying to decide on a heat source. Don’t want to go with regular light bulbs due to side and potential availability. Not sure what my options are for halogen bulbs / 20W type bulbs but in what type of fixture - and how many spaced along the 10’

Have been looking at reptile heat tape - place on top of reflective backed styrofoam and under perhaps a “false floor”. 6’ by 10’ of the brand I’m looking at would be about 120W of heat. Plan to hook up whatever heat source to a digital thermostat.

Anyone have experience with the heat tape and what type of overall capacity I should be looking for to bring the cabinet up by 15 degrees or so?

Michael,
In a nutshell, the proposal for using a heat tape of some sort will work; as well as a temperature controller of some sort.

But, normally, when one has a rod in a drying rack it is convenient that there be a source of light in the rack as well. So, it might make sense to pick up a box of 50 - 15 or 20 watt conventional light bulbs and mount a half dozen light sockets in the box to provide heat and light. The typical light bulb will last 3-5 years. So, if you purchase a box of 50 bulbs and had 6 bulbs in the box that needed to be replaced every three years of constant use, you would have a minimum of 27 years of use from your light sources. Then, since your only use the drying box, 5% of the time, your time of useful light from the box would be multiplied by at least 20 times so that would mean that you would have a service life of 407 years from the pack of 50 light bulb used as in a drying cabinet.

p.s.
I think I have too much time on my hands.

But, certainly if you want to use an appropriate heat tape, it will work.
Or, if you want to stock up on a supply of appropriate small incandescent light bulbs for heat, that will work well as well.

You could also take a string of Led Christmas tree lights and string them along the back of the box, back and forth which would supply the necessary heat and likely never have to be replaced for a cost of about $5.

Best wishes.

You could also have a small ceramic heater at one end of the cabinet with its own thermostat and just have vents at each end of the box to let the warmed air circulate through the box. But, this could defeat the purpose of keeping any dust particles out of the drying box.

Michael,
Incorporating an incandescent light bulb for heat, and subsequent light as well, is inexpensive and one can simply change the wattage to achieve the desired heat in the cabinet. I used a small computer fan to gently circulate the air over the bulb and down the length of my cabinet; this does require employing an air return from the far end of the cabinet back to the fan but can be accomplished rather easily. I also employed filters to eliminate airborne dust as well as to adjust/restrict the airflow. Maybe these pics of my cabinet will give you ideas of your own.
[www.rodbuilding.org]
[www.rodbuilding.org]
[www.rodbuilding.org]
[www.rodbuilding.org]
[www.rodbuilding.org]

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks Roger & Mark.

Mark - I've got the pics of your cabinet saved away on my phone for creative derivative inspiration. Trying to avoid a fan for concern of dust entry and such - though guess could be one just moving air inside the box itself...

Appreciate the ideas on various light options as well - was planning on some LED strips on a switch for light - yeah - then why not just use bulbs - I know, I know, I know... :)

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2020 11:54PM by Michael Ward.

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Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/27/2020 06:27PM by Michael Ward.