Searched on amazon and found ortho bands, in sizes 1/8 through 3/8” in 1/16” increments. What sizes are you guys using? And are the 1/8” small enough for the tip section of rod with a 4 - 6 tip?

Gary, I would think 1/8" as your smallest band isn't going to do you a lot of good down near the tip of the blank. The Mud Hole tubing I talked about earlier starts and 1/16" ID, and goes up from there.

[www.mudhole.com]

I like it because I can cut it as wide as I want it, which really comes in handy for the longer feet on certain guides, like those of the reduction train guides for spinning rods. Being able to cut to width adds to its' versatility.

Gary, I use 1/8 and 3/16 bands of that type. They can be made tighter by looping it over the tip putting a twist in it and looping it over a second time (figure 8). I prefer the type Roger shows in his 1st link that are also sold by Mudhole. One thing I find annoying though is the fact that I know this type also comes in a size at least twice that of the ones shown but I never see them anywhere. I much prefer the o-ring type to the elastic bands. I got some from a local orthodontist one time which is why I know they come in at least one larger size.

Gary,
Use these near the rod tip:

[www.amazon.com]

Roger do you know anywhere these can be found in larger size I.D.'s as I mentioned above? Lady at orthodontist office looked at me kinda funny when I told her what I wanted them for. lol

David, i have been using the tubing, bought from Mudhole. Have had no problems using that. Did not like tape. Tubing makes it much easier to move the guides around while static testing. It is about time to order more tubing, and thought maybe these bands might be better.

Thanks Roger. I saw those, but did not find dimensions.

You can cut the tape strips thinner with scissors, I do micros all the time like this. Beats sliding a rubber band down the blank then having to cut it off. Just wrap up to the thin cut strip and remove the tape. The partial wrap will hold the guide. Static test the rod with the wraps and if it is messed up, change it. If you make enough rods with the same blanks that you have already tested in the past then static test after the wraps is fine. Typically when you use micro guides, you need more of them anyway and the rod will pass the static test. A lot of us aren't building rods like they were building in the 70s and 80s with one guide per foot.

Lance, it,s more like 2 or 3 guides per foot with 2 or 3 or 4 more guides than feet length of the rod..it looks like an equal distance guide layout, no stress test needed..i just built a 50" glass rod with 8 micro guides plus tip..i got every inch of power squeezed from that rod and can feel it in the hook set.

ben belote Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Lance, it,s more like 2 or 3 guides per foot with
> 2 or 3 or 4 more guides than feet length of the
> rod..it looks like an equal distance guide layout,
> no stress test needed..i just built a 50" glass
> rod with 8 micro guides plus tip..i got every inch
> of power squeezed from that rod and can feel it in
> the hook set.

That's just crazy Ben, how we have changed our way of thinking of this and how much better it works. It is so true about getting every inch of power out of the blank along with increased sensitivity.

a lot depends on the type of fishing line going through the guides..stiffer lines like mono and fl. carbon resist passing through guides while the limper braided pass smoothly through almost any number of guides and size..i don,t think i could fish as well with mono on any of my rods for this reason, unless i go down in pound test..

Ben,
Of course you did, if you put guides about 3 sizes larger than you currently put on your rods.

Take care

i,m willing to give up mono for braid so that i can fish glass rods that will have the sensetivity close to carbon rods plus i can use more numerous micro guides..the braided also allows me to run the line through the butt guide and right to the choke guide which is only about 18" from the spin reel..i wanted to have a guide set up similar to a casting rod set but for a spinning rod ..there,s more running guides and they start sooner on the rod, like a casting rod..the runners keep the line closer to the rod which enhances sensetivity and power...just my opinion..lol.

Lots of ways to do things , but I cant imagine anything being easier than dental bands. Super cheap and easy to find.

Don: I have found elastic sewing thread easier to use than dental bands. You have to first pick out the right sized rubber bands and work them up and down the blank to the right spot. I take two turns around the guide foot and the blank with elastic thread and tie a square knot and done. The thread wrap holds firmly but is easier to adjust than sticky rubber. The thread wraps are thinner, allowing me to wrap further up the guide foot.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/30/2020 08:14AM by Phil Ewanicki.

Thank all again, I used the micro bands and did the static testing as shown on anglers resource and as all of you mentioned it worked perfectly, I don't know why I was thinking the guides would be under pressure, DUH, only thing with pressure is the tip top and blank, I just finished my second rod, It will be 24 hours of curing at 3 pm today, and I must say it turned out nice. I am picking up tips from all of you and watching the youtube stuff mostly by some of you as well as Flex coat, Rodmaker mag get bit outdoors and Mudhole. The part I thought I would be the best at( wrapping the guides ) seems to give me the most trouble, but again this is my second rod ever. I think with the hints and tips the next one will go and look better in the wrapping part. I am going to build a pitching stick next, it will need to cast as well, but mostly pitching texas rigged worms, creature baits and jigs.