Buongiorno Fratelli! I always have trouble getting a totally smooth, non wavy finish on longer runs when applying finish over my decals or labels on my builds. Makes me crazy! Any tips? They do look better since going horizontally. It could be I am just not good or I am trying to be too good. Help? Thanks!

Here's the process I use.

First apply a light coat of epoxy in the area for the decal When it has cured to the point it will no longer fingerprint, apply the decal, burnishing well especial the decal edges. then you are ready apply the epoxy overcoat. Do not apply too much epoxy and be sure the blank is level!

Here's the process I use.

First apply a light coat of epoxy in the area for the decal When it has cured to the point it will no longer fingerprint, apply the decal, burnishing well especial the decal edges. then you are ready apply the epoxy overcoat. Do not apply too much epoxy and be sure the blank is level!

For me the best method is to do 2, even 3 coats applied by brushing (yes , I use a brush) longitudinally, and trying to get it right without working it much. Do it then rotate the blank in good light to make sure you haven't missed any areas. Since you were not asking about bubbles, I won't comment on that.

This should give you a nice, level finish. Usually when I have had wavy finishes it's because I used too much epoxy. As stated above, level is important to prevent it from building up at one end.

Todd,

I used to fight this my self. until I read a post on this site explaining a different procedure.This method differs from the other comments above.

I apply a heavy coat of epoxy over the decals, (after first applying a coat of color preserver over them). I leave the rod blank on the rod supports and wipe the drips off of the bottom of the blank, as they appear, with a brush, or spatula, being careful not to touch the blank. After 3 - 5 minutes I manually rotate the blank 180 degrees and wait for any drop to appear on the bottom of the blank. While doing this, I also monitor the guides, as I coat them at the same time. I continue to do this for about an hour and then place the rod in my drying cabinet. You will find it is not necessary to rotate the rod every 3-5 minutes, as the epoxy starts to set up and the time between rotations will increase.

This a bullet proof method to insure a smooth as glass epoxy over the decals. Since I started following this procedure, I have never had a bad result,

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

I also do 3 coats almost always. I don't have an issue with bubbles. Even while applying...no bubbles. If there is a bubble or two they pop when I heat them with a gun. I also use a brush. Thanks!

Interesting...I've never heard the color preserver comment. After reading the different techniques it seems people have their own way. I'm going to try the color preserver on an old rod. I think one of my biggest issues is that I try too hard. thanks for the comment!

If not smooth, I have sanded down with fine grit paper and applied one or two thin coats and it was no longer unevern.

I'm with Don. Michael, what are these bubbles of which you speak? lol

Todd,
I'm with Don, but I haven't tried his epoxy application method. I've got some old spare decals which I'm going to devote to his process to check it out. I'm always looking for better ways to skin the cat. I always use color preserver immediately over the applied decal; once you've burnished it down, it seals down the decal to prevent the edges from lifting up (I prefer Flex Coat CP for this task). It completely disappears under the epoxy finish.

Thanks David! I will try that practice first.

I'm new to this forum (first post here in fact), and I'd like to share what I've done recently to combat this. To start I first put on a base layer to the decal/label area with a brush and do the first coat on my guides, let dry for 24 hours.

Then (be sure you have foil or something underneath the application area you do not care about for this process):
1. I have the rod on a 9 rpm dryer
2. I mix up a fresh batch of epoxy, just 6ml total
3. I pour the epoxy on lengthwise from the start of the base layer to the end
4. Rotate the rod 90 and pour lengthwise again
5. Turn
6. Repeat with the other area in the same process if I have two labels/decals
7. Wick off excess
8. Let turn on the dryer and inspect for excess for 15-20 minutes

I used to struggle with this so much I didn't know what to do. Then I saw a commercial where a chocolate bar was being covered with chocolate in vast excess, and the excess went through the grated conveyor. Bingo.

I know this sounds stupid, but it works haha.