I am wondering if anyone has used U-40 Dura Gloss LS Supreme epoxy thread finish, if so what did you think of it?

Thanks in advance for your help,
Mike

That's all I've ever used. I like it a lot. I used to use the regular formula, but because I was mistakenly shipped the wrong product, I used the high build formula. I liked it even better so that's what I have been using on my last 4 builds. It's thicker than the regular formula but it still levels fairly quickly. I like it a lot.

Thanks for your reply, however I was hoping for a comparison with some of the other thread finishes such as Flex Coat, ProKöte or another finish which may be preferred by most. I have been using Flex Coat low build and it works ok however I am trying to determine if there may be a better option. The U-40 Dura Gloss is advertised to be totally bubble free without the use of heat; this is quite a bold statement which makes me wonder about accuracy.

I like Threadmaster lite, and D-2

All the finishes are bubble free without the use of heat, unless you stir-whip them to the point that you introduce bubbles. No finish is idiot-proof.

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Michael,
Excuse me and at the risk of sounding rude, this topic has been covered numerous times. In virtually all cases, it all really boils-down to personal preference and what works the best for each builder’s own style and requirements. All of the present thread finishes are very good and are basically variations on the same theme (with CTS Crystal Coat having a different mix ratio). When grouping all the finishes together, I feel safe in saying the thinner viscosity versions flow-out, release bubbles easier/better, but require longer to cure while the thicker viscosity, high-build versions do just that, build thickness quicker, have a shorter pot-life/cure time and possibly reduce the number of coats required. Another concern is resisting yellowing over time when exposed to UV. While all epoxies will eventually yellow, from my observations, I would place CTS Crystal Coat at the top with ThreadMaster (Light is the only version I have tried) second in resistance to yellowing.
On freshwater builds, I typically prefer a rather light coat of thread finish on my wraps; not dry and dull but where the texture of the thread is very visible. Such is not the case with my saltwater builds where I glop it on to help protect and preserve the wraps.
While not as cost-effective, consider purchasing the smaller quantities of several different thread finishes and experiment to find the one that works best for you. Whichever one you choose will be the correct one!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I guess I’m an idiot then because only on a rare occasion have I been able to mix epoxy bubble free!

Thanks for all the help

Slow down. Mix (fold) slowly.

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Michael,
I have to admit, I mix finish of different brands and most have a few or a lot of bubbles in them.
But, I really don't care about the bubbles. When I apply the finish, I let it sit for a bit and then go back over the finish with a touch of gentle heat, the bubbles all escape and the finish is as smooth and as free of bubbles as any other fine finish on rods.

I also never put any of the finish on a metal foil or do any transfer. I simply put part A and then part B into a 2 oz plastic mixing cup, mix slowly with a craft stick for 120 seconds as timed by the clock on the wall and apply with a throw away brush.

Use a bit of gentle heat to thin the finish to let the bubbles out and let the finish flow and when done, put it on the slow turning dryer for an overnight drying cycle. The vast majority of my rods only have a single + coat of finish on them. I go back and forth over the length of the rod about 3 times during a 5 minute cycle and add or delete finish as needed during this time and that normally gives me a perfect one coat + finish that only requires a single drying cycle that lets me ship production rods 20 hours after I have started to apply the finish.

Take care

Michael,
Mixing slowly, especially with the high build formulas, will certainly reduce the number of bubbles in the mix. The main thing to be concerned with is THOROUGH MIXING, a minimum of 2 minutes. The slower one stirs, the longer time is required to THOROUGHLY MIX, and that can eat-up valuable time with the shorter pot life of the high builds. Consider using the regular or light varieties when starting out which I think are more forgiving concerning flow-out/leveling, bubble release and pot life, even though an additional coat may be required. Possibly move up to the high builds later after gaining experience and confidence. I was initiated with ProKote regular, then moved on to ProKote high build which was OK but did not level as well over long wraps so usually back to regular, tried ProFlex Rod Coat with fine results, then CTS Crystal Coat with outstanding results other than a lengthy cure time, and finally ThreadMaster light with very pleasing results. Generally but not always, I now use a regular or light viscosity thread finish. Hands-down, the clearest, best leveling and most bubble-free of those is the CTS CC but the extended cure time can be a nuisance and aggravating, even for a non production builder as me. When time is of no concern but the best quality finish is, I use CTS CC. Every aspect considered though, I would vote for TH light without trying their regular formula. But that is just me; your parameters may be completely different.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Thanks Roger, I was surprised to learn that only an idiot can’t mix epoxy without bubbles ????. I have used the heart method with good success but sharing your one coat method is a great deal of help. I do use metal foil because I thought it extends the working time, do you think this wrong?

In my original post the intent was simply asking if there may be a product out there that I wasn’t aware of.

Thanks again Roger for your generous help!

Mike

If you're getting bubbles in your epoxy mix, you aren't mixing it correctly. First off, use a metal spatula for mixing, not little round plastic sticks or wooden popsicle sticks. And fold the epoxy - don't stir or whip it. And do this slowly for about 3 minutes.

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Mr Kirkman,
I am curious as to why mixing the finish would mix any differently at all - whether one used a metal spatula or a wooden craft stick for mixing assuming that one mixed slowly folding it over each other during the mix?

I have used both and have found zero difference in the mixing results, but maybe I am using the wrong metal spatula. When I use the wooden craft stick it is 3.8th of an inch wide. When I use the metal spatula, it is 3.8th of an inch wide and I get identical results.

Thanks much

it doesn,t seem to matter how the epoxy is mixed if the wraps are sealed with CP..bubbles present no problem..they don,t get absorbed down into the thread..they stay on the surface where they easily pop..

Clearly it's more the speed and manner in which you're mixing versus what you're actually mixing with, stir stick, popsicle stick, metal spatula, etc ... The simple process of moving a solid object through a liquid creates a vortex behind the object. which has the potential for introducing air into the mixture. A textured surface, (a wooden popsicle stick) because of its increased surface area and irregular texture, is going to increase that potential.

Seems to be much ado about nothing, if you ask me.

Tom Kirkman,

I am far from being an accomplished rod builder however; I have built in excess of 25 so I have some experience with mixing Epoxy. I have done my do diligent in the past, I am familiar with most of the dos, and don’ts of mixing Epoxy for thread wraps. However if one is being forthright, I believe, it would be difficult to disagree with mixing Epoxy is not as simple as “do it correctly bubble free, in correctly entrained bubbles”! As mentioned in previous posts, my initial intention was to learn if there may be a product available with improved bubble releasing properties which I am not familiar with; it certainly wasn’t to offend anyone or waste their time.

I've built a few rods myself and never once had trouble with epoxy, bubbles or otherwise. For many years, attendees of the ICRBE asked me to do a seminar on guide wrap finishing with epoxy. I refrained, however, because the material wouldn't fill an hour, let alone 10 minutes. A few years ago I did present such a seminar, and most of the 100+ people in the room were amazed when I told them "that's all there is to it" at about the 6 or 7 minute mark. People just make using epoxy far too hard because they try to do too much instead of just letting the epoxy do what it was designed to do.

If you are getting bubbles in your mix, or on the wraps because you're trying to brush the epoxy around instead of just applying it, rest assured that the thicker or more viscous the epoxy is the slower it will release bubbles. If you are having problems with bubble release on a lite viscosity finish, you'll absolutely have trouble with a heaver viscosity epoxy. A change of product isn't likely to rectify any issues you're having. A change in technique, however, is apt to be more successful.

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Tom,

I guess you have a special talent, good for you!

Actually no. Epoxying takes no special talent and generally requires less effort than most rod builders seem to think. But I watch each new epoxy arrive on the scene and then watch rod builders who have had issues with previous epoxies flock to the newest and latest thinking that it may solve their epoxy woes. It won't. The problem is almost never the epoxy.

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Probably not what the original poster wants to invest in but if you use mechanical mixer you will not have any bubbles at all. I think a few companies still sell these and they are not very expensive.