Hey guys new builder here and first post but I have been following along for awhile and enjoy all the helpful information on this page. My question is I am wanting to get into building cork grips on my lathe , I’m hoping someone can dumb it down for me on exactly what I need in regards to my chuck. I have a jet 1221vs but what chuck do y’all recommend for turning cork on the mud hole mandrels and occasionally some acrylic blocks. Any help will be helpful. Thanks

I use a 4 jaw self centering chuck for the head end. A Jacobs chuck will also work if it is large enough for the mandrel. I use a 60 degree love center for the tail stock.

Depending on the cork, some is harder than others, I just use sandpaper for shaping.

Chris Richer

Chris Richer
Iroquois ON

My Jet is very similar to yours, mine is older and does not have a couple of the newer options you have, like the variable speed control.

So, bought a Collet set from Penn State, while it does come with some collets that you may not use (the bigger ones) it never pays to be without the right tool in a time of need. They will attach to the headstock and they do hold a Mandrel quite well.
[www.pennstateind.com]

Another option, you can use a drill chuck with a #2 taper in the headstock to hold your Mandrel while the other end gets a #2 live center to mate up with the 60 degree live center in the end of the mandrel. This would be okay for cork work, but I would want a better locking tool like the Collets if you are turning wood and acrylic.

Another thing you might want to invest in, a Bed Extension for that lathe. I have one on mine, and its needed when turning Spey Rod grips or similar stuff.

Jason,
You certainly have a wonderful lathe that will do everything that you need with respect to rod building:

[www.jettools.com]

If you intend to do more turning work and to make your overall job easier, it is really nice to have a bed extension as Bill pointed out.

Although a jacobs chuck is very convenient for holding mandrels, the use of a 3 or 4 jaw machine shop chuck works exceptionally well for holding mandrels as well as to have the ability for the mandrel to pass through the head stock to have only as much mandrel as is needed for the particular grip bring turned.

For example:
[www.grizzly.com]

Note: with the chuck listed above, you will need to purchase a separate backing plate to match the 1x8 spindle thread on your lathe. Then, for the perfect fit, it is nice to have the head stock shaft and the backing plate and chuck taken to a machine shop where the backing plate can be match mounted to your head stock shaft and turned down for the perfect match to insure that you have 0 run out on the chuck when you use it.

I have used "little machine shop" for supplying lathe chuck back plates.
[littlemachineshop.com]

Select the back plate that you need for the particular chuck that you have purchased and buy it. Then, when you get the back plate, remove the head stock shaft from your lathe, and take the back plate, and your new chuck to the machine shop of your choice to have the back plate turned for the 0 run out that is desirable for any sort of precise turning and shaping.

This is a selection of chucks from "little machine shop": [littlemachineshop.com]

You can use the home style chucks that use "dolly bars" to open and close the chuck and they work just fine. However, for a quality chuck that you can lock tightly - if working with harder things like steel, the use of the machine shop style chucks with the side mounted key do a much better job of giving a rock solid secure mount of your mandrels.

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Rockler is also a good source for wood working tools - including tools that work well for rod building.

In particular the use of the Nova line of chucks work exceptionally well for use in the world of wood turning as well as for rod building:

[www.rockler.com]

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By the way, if you do find a chuck that interests you, you can sometimes to go used tool shops, pawn shops or on line sites to find the chuck in the used tool market at a less expensive price.

I have found that over the years, I have accumulated a significant number of chucks, and other tools that I frequently use when using my lathe. The lathe by itself is a fine machine that is useful for many different jobs. But, as you know, - to really do the jobs well, a lathe often requires that special accessory, chuck bed extension, measuring tool, collet, bed support, work support, tool rest, turning chisel etc. etc. But, the ownership of the accessories which will sometimes run to be many times in price of the original lathe, really make the lathe a tool to treasure, use and create objects of both beauty and personal satisfaction.

Best wishes.

I am an advocate of collets to hold the mandrels! A couple of things think are important! They hold the mandrel more securely and they are truer. They also allow you to pass the mandrel through the head stock. In my experience, using a chuck often ends up scarring if it slips at all.

As Bill mentions above the set from Penn State is a good one.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/21/2020 10:36PM by Phil Erickson.

Phil Erickson Wrote:
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> I am an advocate of collets to hold the mandrels!
> A couple what I think are important! They hold the
> mandrel more securely and they are truer. They
> also allow you to pass the mandrel through the
> head stock. In my experience, using a chuck often
> ends up scarring if it slips at all.
>
> As Bill mentions above the set from Penn State is
> a good one.

I agree with Phil regarding collets. I used to be a tool & die maker and if what I was turning could be done with either a collet or a jawed chuck, I chose to use a collet EVERY TIME. They're also safer to work around than the "meat grinder" jaws of a 3 or 4 jawed chuck. Obviously collets don't have the infinite size flexibility that jawed chucks do so there are advantages to each style.

I use a cheap drill lathe and it works for me. I had a local machine shop make me a couple of mandrels for my live center.