So, Just wondering..

I know if you have thread epoxy crystalize on you theres no harm in heating the epoxy itself (without the hardener) to melt the crystalization for proper mixing, how about reel seat epoxy? Or would it chemically alter the properties of the resin itelf?

Warm it up. Epoxy resins can undergo a cystalluzation process. I have had U40 rod bond resin cystallize before and heating it restored it to normal

I figured as much.. Im just curious now as to why my resins are crystalizing.. My room never drops below 65°, ive had my pro paste, (honestly cant wait until is done so i can use rod bond... Waste not...) Hitena thread resin, and some diamond cote resin all cloud up.. Yet an older bottle of Hitena is crystal clear yet.. All stored in the same General vacinity..

Its a pain in the ass reheating resin every time i have to mix it..

Norm, will the reel seat epoxy stay soft? Or recrystalize like thread epoxies?

It may recystallize. Crystallization is dependent on the purity of the resin (the purer the greater the chance of crystallization), seed crystal formation, and temperature. Many types of compounds can change from liquid to solid and back again without harm. Just the nature of the beast.
Norm



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 04/14/2020 01:00AM by Norman Miller.

You might consider storing your epoxies elsewhere in the house. Somewhere warmer and bringing them into the shop only when you need them. My experience is that anything below standard room temp (about 72F) will lead to some crystallization over time.

...........

In that case, i have to just live with it.. We have a single range for the whole house, and my rod room is on the second floor, the thermostat is on the first floor in line with the front door.. So basically what that translates to is the 2nd floor being generally 10-15 degrees warmer.

My wife keeps the thermostat at 68° so its about 78° upstairs generally.. Except for those cold nights.. Old drafty house... Lol

Anthony,
Keep a small microwave handy.
Put in the non metallic container of crystalized material and heat it for 10 seconds and you will be good to go.

A microwave makes the job near instant and somewhat longer lasting than some other forms of heating the material.

Simple to do, if starting to work on a rod, check both bottle of material. If one or both have some crystals, just nuke them for 10-15 seconds and you will be set for the next week or so at least.


Take care

Wow.. A week huh? Thats a heck of alot better then the 3 days i get with a warm water bath.. Thanks roger.. Wonder why nuking it works longer.. Probably becouse of heating from the core out i would think.

Can you store it near a heat register, or behind the fridge? You have not introduced any contaminants of any kind, right?

Definatly no contaminants, i pull what 12ml of each into a syringe, put the bottles away until i need more.. Lynn says i do it backwards.. Lol but i figure theres less chance of contamination and oxidation this way

Anthony,
My U40 Rod Bond resin was crystallized when I received it; I just thought that was the way it was. While mixing with the hardener, it smoothed out fine due to the chemical thermal reaction as well as the mechanical thermal reaction of the mixing itself.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

And the propaste mixs about 90% but getting the resin out of the jar is a 2 popsicle stick chore.. Lol it'll snap 1 without even trying.. Im about to use some here in about 20 min. (Or however long it takes for me to reem that hapalon) i finally got the stuff to finish(start) that downrigger rod.. Ill warm it up and give er a go

Doesn't sound like something I'd say.

I think my arm is going to fall off.. That took me almost 2.5 hours... Didnt think i would need to reem that much out! My shoulder acually hurts lol.. And it looks like im not going to epoxy that up just yet.. Doesnt look right.. 12" rear with a 10" fore grip all being straight on a 7' rod.. Plus the hostel i had gotten for the build was for a tapered grip.. Sooo... Looks like i have to research how to turn hapalon first.. That's gonna be a nightmare unless its done on the rod...

First off... Holy @#$%&... I have a new respect for you salt guys.. Thats the first time i ever did a gimball, hypalon grips, a 12" and 8" (10" was too long, tapered the end into a hostel.. Looks 10x better) and i size 22 reel seat.. That was like work! Lol

The resin, after nuking it for 15 sec. Was like working with butter again.. Good call guys.. Thank you guys.. Seriously