Hey....

I am looking for advise, I am building a rod and will use the Fuji pts reelseat with hidden thread.
My question is....
what would be the best way to seal the gap in the front between the barrel and blank. Would a winding check work?

Taso,
For such circumstances, I usually and simply face the end of the barrel/bushing with thread finish, usually with an appropriate pigment but not required. It may require more than one application but leaves a nice, comfortable radius ramp between the blank and barrel.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Hi Mark,
Thanks for your insight. Was thinking that in case I could not find something. One suggestion I received was to use the batson fbwc and from what I saw on line it seems to be what I am looking for.

Epoxy a winding check on the end of the barrel but make sure the ID of the winding check doesn't touch the blank, or it will scratch it up. If you are using PTSK/ASH hood with hidden thread barrel, Fuji makes the graphite insert that goes over it with a winding check that goes on the end to cover the gap. Call the girls at the Rod Room they can help you out. You will also need to cut some of the thread off the body of the seat so it doesn't jam into that winding check when you tighten it all the way down on the reel foot. If you use a foam insert it's a little tricky with the winding check because it just kinda lays on it and you will need to sand the foam so it will fit flush when you epoxy it, it won't just fit perfectly unless you do that. I would be careful using another brand with it because sometimes the groove on the the thread part won't be in the same place as the nut guide.

Test à Fuji WCS plastic winding check (maybe you have to cut the ridge),
Those little things are usefull, everybody should have some in stock :-)

________________________________________
@+
Eric
[www.emfishing.fr]

I’m assuming you are talking about the gap between the threaded barrel of the reel seat and the blank. If this is the case then either the Fuji WCS (as Eric suggests) or the Batson FBWC wind checks will work since both they are designed to match the OD of the threaded barrel of the reel seat. Marks suggestion of using pigmented epoxy to build a ramp will also work. However, with the hidden thread hood and the appropriate hood sleeve in place one doesn’t see this gap. If you are talking about the gap been the barrel of the hidden thread hood with the blank, it would depend on the hood sleeve you are using. If using the Fuji carbon fiber sleeve than use the Fuji Perfect Fit cap ring designed for the hood assembly as Lance suggests. If using a cork, EVA or CFX carbon fiber sleeve than just ream the sleeve end to fit the blank. In all of these cases, do as Lance suggests and check to make sure the threaded barrel of the reel seat doesn’t protrude beyond the barrel of the hood when screwed all the way down. If it does then trim the threaded barrel of the reel seat back, otherwise you will have problems.
Norm

Guys,

Thank you for all the suggestions.. from my limited knowledge I think you all covered the issues I may have.

Couple of points:

1) If using a carbon sleeve and cap ring the natural desire is to create a good, tight fit. This is not a good idea. The metal edge of the cap ring can ding and weaken the blank in a deep bend situation. It can also rub or scratch the blank if reels are swapped out too often and the ring rubs the blank when tightening or loosening. Instead, take a little extra time to add a winding check to the barrel end of the seat underneath the thread cover. That way, you have a water tight, protective seal on the seat/blank install. Then, give yourself an extra millimeter of space between the cap ring and the blank to avoid any damage to the blank. For added protection you can add thread or epoxy to further protect this area.

2) When using cork EVA or WINN thread covers, I usually skip any sort of winding check or cap ring and just carefully ream the cover so it seals tightly against the blank with a reel installed. Again, you can decorate the area where contact is made for a more finished look.

Thanks again everyone... all the information is great

Don't know about the pmts but I built a rod and used the fuji tvs with the hidden thread and I can't fit many reels in the seat. None of my Pfluegers fit...not even the small 25's. The hidden thread cover won't allow the rear seat to wind back far enough. I've tried to see if I did something wrong but I've done many spin rods and almost always use Fiji seats. I just recently started using some Alps for a change and like them too. But...check before doing your mounting. Maybe that hidden thread needs to be cut down or something.

If you are going to use a hidden thread hood you have to screw the hood, without the hood sleeve glued on, all the way down and if any threads extend beyond the hood tube, then trim the threads back so they are even with the hood tube. If you don’t do this then once the hood sleeve is glued in place the hood will not tighten all the way down to hold your reel foot securely in place.
Norm

I can tighten the reel seat down all the way...just can't open it wide enough to allow most reels to fit in.

I have not had that problem. What size TVS seat are you using? I use a size 17 and have had no problems with them, even with a 4000 reel. They are very long seats and when I use a hidden thread hood, I have to trim the threads back.
Norm

This was a 16 on a light blank. I maybe messed something up or got something wrong. Sorry to take away the topic from the original question. Just make sure your reel will fit in the seat before you mount it. I do that now for sure.