I am making 2 Jigging rods. 1 is 6 foot 2 and the other is 6 foot. What length rear and fore grips would you use?

thanks

Mark

Mark,
I would make both of them 10 inches long for the rear grip and I would not put any fore grip on the rod. Really no need for a fore grip on the rods.

Take care

On spinning rods I am opposite of Roger. Because your hand placement is forward with a spinning reel the fore grip is more important than the rear grip. I think at least a 2" fore grip would work and a short rear grip if any. You could also do a rear grip to the butt.

Not many builders have figured this out yet, but if you do a split grip, just short ramps off the reel seat, uplocking so the front ramp is almost the same diameter as the seat hood, and an appropriately sized butt grip, it will be the most comfortable and effective finesse rod you've ever made. [www.rodbuilding.org]

Thanks you guys, you are all awesome. Michael, I don't understand your idea? Can you be a little more specific? Would you have a pic of your idea?

Lance, how far up the rear of the rod would you start the reel seat?

Mark,
Click on the link that Michael posted. It is a nice picture of the build.

Thanks Roger! About how from the back on a 6 foot rod would start the reel seat?

The reel seat (actually the reel) position should be placed in recognition of two ergonomic considerations, first the balance of the rod, and second, the possibility of a "too long" butt getting caught on the fisherman's clothing. The second will depend somewhat on what clothing will be worn, the length of the fisherman's arms (wrist to elbow) , and the type of fishing. If the technique doesn't cause a problem, then put it where you want it.

I put my spin reel stems about 10.5 inches from the butt, and don't consider balance a significant issue. With high quality blanks and the guide sizes you plan to use, you've done about all you can for balance, other than where the reel will be placed. I consider the first criteria most important and will not add any weight to a rod for balance. Just my preference; I know many disagree.

More detail on the build concept: The choice to use a straight size 17 seat with small ramps off the front and rear, uplocking facilitates the lightest rod that has very good comfort and sensitivity. The rear ramp is mostly for appearance, but the hand does get back there now and then, so having a pleasing, handsome shape makes sense. In front, make the ramp the same size as the front hood of the seat and your hand will go back and forth without even feeling a significant transition. If you plan to use polyurethane ramps that will be covered with wrap epoxy, make the ramp just smaller than the hood. Then you have a shoulder (the front face of the hood) to use when placing the epoxy up against the seat hood..

Here is a front ramp detail [www.rodbuilding.org]

Have you figured out what kind of reel seat you are going to use yet. Typically on a rod that short I would mount the seat, measured from where the rear reel foot will anchor into the rear slot on the reel seat, at around 8.5" to 9". This would be a medium light blank. You really haven't given any details of the build other than a jigging rod. Is it heavy, medium, light? What is the species of fish you are going after. On a heavier rod, for bigger fish I would want more handle than that and would mount the reel seat 10"+. I really like Michael's concept with that type of real seat. Minimal is best.

Thanks, Lance. The only problem for some with this kind of design is that you have to turn your own parts. Polyurethane reel seat shims work fine, wouldn't recommend them for hard usage, though. I've not had problems. Poly turns so easily that you can take a shim, turn a drill bit into the hole, and turn it on a drill press. It turns almost too easily, and is fragile until installed on the rod. Cork, even burl, can be turned easily on a drill press if you use a mandrel and stabilize it at the drill press table with a cheap ball bearing sunk into a piece of wood which is clamped to the table. I start with 60 grit sandpaper and go progressively finer to about 500.

I, and many others, like the feel of cork on a jigging rod. I keep them short on those length rods - 6-7" rear and 2" fore grips. TVS ergo reel seats with carbon inserts that match the trim bands or guides. Light, sensitive, comfortable and I always seal the cork.

Lots of great ways to build those rods - good luck and enjoy!

Awesome info! Michael, I will custom make my cork for all the parts. I am thinking of using a number 16 reel seat. Your rods are beautiful. My only recommendation on the last pic would be to change the logo to a M. lol Just kidding. Do you live in Michigan? I do in the western part of the state. But thank you so much on helping me here. I was worried about balance as I know for feel it has to be important.

Lance and Rod thank you also!!!!

I live near MSU, and that rod was done for a charity @#$%&. UM doesn't play as well at @#$%& around here as MSU. I went to UM, wife and 1st son to MSU. I highly recommend a size 17 seat. Weighs not much more , but the ergonomics are very much better. My charity rod this year was an ultra light, so I used a 16, and I really didn't like how it felt in the hand. If I can find it , I'll post a link to a device I made to make 16's better for ergonomics.

Here 'tis, Mark

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Thank you Michael. Which number 17 style do you like? I buy from a lot of companies but almost all for fly rods. So I am not the familiar with spinning rod seats.

[anglersresource.net]

These are the ones I use, like the deluxe appearance ehhancements over the standard DPS. The new TVST's are very comfortable, too. I'm just building my first of these right now. But the DPS in size 17 is very simple to build, clean appearance, and comfortable. We'll see where I go after this build (Although I have a few DPS's in hand.)

Thank you Michael..

Since new to spin, I should probably mention that spin seats are usually longer than necessary to fit the reels we use, so many builders cut them off, usually a few threads. However, that amount of weight is insignificant; it is usually done for looks or to minimize the threads that are available to get under the hands. I think the size 16 DPS is 4 inches long, the 17 4 1/4, but don't depend on my memory. Use your judgment. To cut mine, when I do, I fix the seat into a jig so I'll get a square cut, and S-L-O-W-L-Y move it through my table saw with a fine tooth carbide blade. Tape the cut to help minimize any splintering. Slowly! Others use things like Dremels which operate at such high speed there is no chance of splintering, but it's harder to get a square, even cut. Familiar with the Forhan locking loop? See the library above