I know that painting a coat of rod finish over the whole rod blank will make the finished rod heavier and slower in action. Does putting a coat of paint, lacquer, or epoxy prevent the blank from absorbing water, or protect it from the sun, or protect it from breakage?

Adding weight does not make the rod "slower". Nor does stripping finish off a rod make it faster. Tom, correctly, has said that "the action is the action". Can't change that unless you cut the blank from either end.
The flex profile is not changed.
What you are changing is the rate of recovery - and therefore the performance.

I don't believe that any coating, paint or a thin coating of epoxy will improve the durability of a blank.
All my personal fly rods are raw carbon (CTS' P2000) and I just wax them with a high caranuba car wax to give it a nice glow.
Herb

I can't say this with 100 percent accuracy but I think all blanks come with some sort of finish on them and by their formulation are water proof. May be some one else can verify this.

I always apply a coat of paste wax on my rod after I clean it with soap and water.

Paint, PermaGloss or other finish is intended to be permanent and should be protected, the wax is intended to protect the finish and is not a permanent treatment it is sacrificial. I repeat the paint or other coating on blank is a permanent finish, wax is a protectant and is sacrificial.

The wax tends to fill in voids and fine scratches and tries to form an even surface which makes it shinier. The wax also makes the surface “slippery” and somewhat resistant to minor scuffs and rubs. In addition the wax makes the rod easier to keep clean (fish slime, sweat and other contaminants).

Cleaning the rod before applying a coat of wax minimizes wax build up so in theory there is rarely more than one or two coats of wax on the rod.

A great wax to try is "RENAISSANCE" Micro-crystalline wax polish, read up on it, you will find it is very interesting stuff.

My bad. I don't really understand what a "slower" means. I figured wrapping a lead wire around my fly rod, grip to tip, would slow its action. I do know it would make it into a lousy fly rod, whether because of its action or some other descriptor I know not.

Phil,
You are correct - just using the wrong words to describe the issue. Fast/Slow refers to a static load.
Fast: The rod "locks-up" closer to the tip under a a given load - a "FAST" lock-up.
A Slower rod locks up further down the rod - a SLOWER lock-up.
Herb

John,
Actually you are incorrect.

Over the years there have been a number of manufacturers who sold polished graphite blanks with 0 finish on them.

For example, the respected IMX line of blanks from G. Loomis.

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In addition, I have taken rods that have needed rebuilding and have removed every bit of finish. Did a nice polish on the bare graphite or fiberglass and built the rod.

The resin that is used in graphite and fiberglass blanks is completely weather proof and needs no additional finish that simply adds weight to the blank.

Take care

Herb Ladenheim Wrote:
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> Adding weight does not make the rod "slower". Nor
> does stripping finish off a rod make it faster.
> Tom, correctly, has said that "the action is the
> action". Can't change that unless you cut the
> blank from either end.
> The flex profile is not changed.
> What you are changing is the rate of recovery -
> and therefore the performance.
>
> I don't believe that any coating, paint or a thin
> coating of epoxy will improve the durability of a
> blank.
> All my personal fly rods are raw carbon (CTS'
> P2000) and I just wax them with a high caranuba
> car wax to give it a nice glow.
> Herb

Totally agree with Herb and I will add that sensitivity will be affected (performance).

If you keep your rod clean and perhaps add a coat of wax now and then, it's going to have about all the protection from the elements that it requires. So of the new automotive ceramic waxes might be a good option due to their longevity on the surface.

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