I did an inscription on my blank and while it’s not bad looking I think I might replace it with acrylic paint. My thought was to soak a piece of paper towel in DNA and lay it over the inscription. The enamel has dried for about 72 hours.

Thoughts?

Hello Mike.

You could try brush cleaner or Citristrip stripping gel.

But if you use the Citristrip if the blank is painted it will remove the paint (after all it is a paint stripper), with the brush cleaner you might want to check on a spot that will be covered to see if it will remove the blank paint, and if it does I guess you could try DNA rubbed vigorously or maybe chip it off with a razorblade held at 90%.


Hope one of them works for you.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Thanks Bob. I might just leave things alone. For the next build I’m looking at a radiograph pen or open to other suggestions. I’d prefer hand inscription vs decals as it gives a more personal feel.

Mike,
For all of the lettering that is done on the rods that I build are done with a pen and quill using Acrylic ink. Simple, works well and you use the particular quill that you need for the type lettering you are doing.

[www.dickblick.com]

[www.dickblick.com]

[www.dickblick.com]

[www.dickblick.com]



Take care

DNA will not affect enamel. As stated above, if it is an unpainted blank a paint stripper will work

Roger - that’s the speedball pen set I’ve been using with Testors enamel. I’ve used the extra fine quills with ok success. Maybe the acrylic will work better and give me a finer line. I’ll order some of the acrylic ink.
Thanks

Mike,
Copy that.

Before the acrylic was available I used Testors enamel.

But, since I began to use acrylic, I have not looked back and have not used Testors in several years.

Roger - a few questions. Is there a specific brand of acrylic ink you found to work better? I was going to order some Speedball waterproof in white. Do you prep the quill by polishing the tip on a wood surface or similar? Do you spray over the acrylic then apply epoxy? And, do you write directly on the blank or put down a layer of epoxy first?

I put down the first layer of epoxy on the fly rod I’m working on. It looks better than I thought. Glad I left it alone.

Thanks

Mike,
I use the nibs straight from the wrapper. I keep cleaner handy so that I can clean the nib every few minutes. Keeping the nib clean is the secret to using a pen and nib.

I have tried a couple of different inks but prefer the Speedball in white for most of the lettering.

I just wipe down the blank before lettering and then when dry - do the lettering. Nevery put any epoxy on the finish first.

Also, I never spray anything over the lettering either.

However, when I apply finish, I never let the brush touch the blank as it is turning for finish application. I apply the finish before and after the lettering as the rod rotates and let gravity cause the finish to flow over the wrapping. If needed, I add a tiny amount of heat to let the finish flow more easily.

Before doing this I would sometimes smear the lettering and would have to repeat the procedure.

But, by using just the right amount of finish and then not touching the lettering, but just letting the finish flow over the lettering to seal the lettering has worked without fail.

Then, if necessary, a 2nd coat of finish may be applied. But as the case with the rest of the blank, I seldom need more than one coat of finish on the rod. I have always used high build flex coat and this system works very well for me.

Particularly, when I am in a production mode of needing to ship as soon as finished, saving one or two drying cycles mean that the rod ships one or two days sooner by only using one coat of finish.

If the finish is perfect with one coat - there in no need to add more finish and weight to the rod.

Take care

Acetone would likely remove it. Do it outside, so's not to inhale the fumes. (before I get jumped on. lol)

Lynn,
Copy that.
Yes, acetone will easily remove Testors Enamel paint, but it will also remove every big of finish that is under the paint.

However, if you have finish under the paint, then you can use the acetone safely because the finish will shield the blank finish from the acetone.

Take care

Enamel paint can be fairly brittle - maybe try picking it off with a thumbnail, etc. to avoid possible solvent issues. Plastic worms or grubs also melt enamel if it's used as a jig paint... I'm assuming that all rod finishes are "worm proof" so you could try laying a soft plastic bait on the enamel for a couple of days or so.

Actually Mike, the DNA thing was a good idea . Wrap a piece of towel around it, soak with DNA, let it sit a few minutes and it might soften enough for the thumbnail scrape to work. A little heat from a heatgun would aid in this.