I
nternet gathering place for custom rod builders
  • Custom Rod Builders - This message board is provided for your use by the sponsors listed on the left side of the page. Feel free to post any question, answers or topics related in any way to custom building. When purchasing products please remember those who sponsor this board.

  • Manufacturers and Vendors - Only board sponsors are permitted and encouraged to promote and advertise products on the board. You may become a sponsor for a nominal fee. It is the sponsor fees that pay for this message board.

  • Rules - Rod building is a decent and rewarding craft. Those who participate in it are assumed to be civilized individuals who are kind and considerate in their dealings with others. Please respond to others in the same fashion in which you would like to be responded to. Registration IS NOW required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting. Posts which are inflammatory, insulting, or that fail to include a proper name and email address will be removed and the persons responsible will be barred from further participation.

    Registration is now required in order to post. You must include your actual First and Last name and a correct email address when registering or posting.
SPONSORS

ICRBE 2020
EXPO ON FACEBOOK
CCS Database
Int. Custom Rod Symbol
Common Cents Info
American Tackle
Anglers Rsrc - Fuji
Anglers Workshop
BatsonRainshadowALPS
BRC Rods
Bingham Enterprises
Cork Specialties LLC
CRB
HNL Rod Blanks–CTS
CTS New Zealand
Custom Fly Grips LLC
Decal Connection
Flex Coat Co.
Get Bit Outdoors
Hitena USA
HYDRA
Janns Netcraft
Mickels Custom Rods
Mudhole Custom Tackle
MHX Rod Blanks
North Fork Composites
Pacific Bay
ProProducts
REC Components
ReelSeatBlanks.com
Renzetti Inc.
Rod Builders Warehouse
RodHouse France
RodMaker Magazine
RodMaker Blog
Schneiders Rod Shop
SeaGuide Corp.
Tackleworks
The Rod Room
Trondak U-40
Utmost Enterprises
VisualWRAP/VisualWEAVE
ZipCast

Carbon fiber question
Posted by: Steven Corvin (---)
Date: March 07, 2020 07:51AM

Just built on a .585 butt blank using carbon fiber CFX grips. When the fighting butt was reamed the foam core was paper thin and split when it was put on. Using a EVA butt cap that fits the core. If you were to build on a blank with a larger butt diameter would you cut the foam core tenon off and ream the butt more or opt for a different grip. Unsure if reaming the cores so much compromises the carbon fiber material?

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Carbon fiber question
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: March 07, 2020 08:02AM

The foam core is the grip, the carbon skin over the top is just to protect the core. You could ream the core very thin and it would still be okay. As long as there is core to blank contact for support, you shouldn't have any problems.

......................

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Carbon fiber question
Posted by: David Baylor (---)
Date: March 07, 2020 09:03AM

The tenons on the CFX grips I have used have had an O.D. of .750". If the butt measurement you supplied is correct, after reaming to fit you should have had about 1/16th of an inch of tenon surrounding the butt of the blank.

Anyhow .... if it makes you feel any better, I had the same thing occur when I did my very first foam core grip. So speaking from experience lol, even though the tenon split, if you can get the butt cap to go over the tenon without out it completely destroying the tenon, it shouldn't cause you any problems. The grip is going to be secured to the blank. It isn't going to move once installed.

I would go ahead and install the grip, but leave the butt cap off until the epoxy has set up and dried, then try and slide the butt cap on. If you fear doing so will damage the tenon, use a piece of masking tape (or 2 if needed) laid flat over the end of the butt and trimmed so that when you start to slide the butt cap on, a little bit of the tape rolls over the end of the tenon. It will make that edge a little slick and keep the tenon from chunking off. If that description makes sense?

If you wanted to eliminate what tenon there is left, you could install the butt cap similar to how you would if you used masking tape as an arbor for installing a reel seat. Wrap about a 1/4" wide strip up against the grip, and a 1/4" wide strip around the very end of the blank. Coat it well with epoxy and slip the butt cap on. I would think that would be more than adequate to secure the butt cap.

Finally, to avoid this same problem in the future, just ream the grip a little more. As you've found out, the foam core is rigid, if there isn't carbon sleeve surrounding it, it is gong to split if you've made the fit too tight. I've only used foam core grips on 4 of the rods I've built. The last 3 I did, I dry fitted them to within 1/4" to where I want them to end up.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Carbon fiber question
Posted by: Dean Veltman (---.trakkernavrech.com)
Date: March 07, 2020 09:03AM

I had the same issues on a nfc 736. I had the foam crack off when reaming si ce the part the cap attaches to was so thin. I ended up fitting a paper thin graphite/foam arbor for the butt cap. Next time, I think I will use some thread to fill the gap. For the arbor, the thinner diameter portion of the arbor started to through before it would bit the blank.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Carbon fiber question
Posted by: Dean Veltman (---.trakkernavrech.com)
Date: March 07, 2020 09:03AM

I had the same issues on a nfc 736. I had the foam crack off when reaming si ce the part the cap attaches to was so thin. I ended up fitting a paper thin graphite/foam arbor for the butt cap. Next time, I think I will use some thread to fill the gap. For the arbor, the thinner diameter portion of the arbor started to through before it would bit the blank.

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Carbon fiber question
Posted by: Jeff Shafer (---.s2807.c3-0.drf-cbr1.atw-drf.pa.cable.rcncustomer.com)
Date: March 07, 2020 04:13PM

One thing to consider is reducing the butt section diameter by inserting a stint into the butt section. On a recent fiberglass build I was able to reduce the butt diameter from .452 to .400. Around three inches of the butt section was removed and a section of fiberglass blank was inserted/bonded into the butt (similar taper). Made a large difference considering that I wanted to mount a wood reel seat insert onto the butt section. On another build, I reduced a .505 butt diameter to around .390. In this case though, I used tape arbors to match the ID of the shortened original butt section. I have no concerns about security of the reel seats mounted onto the stints.

Not exactly your situation, but it appears to me using a stint would allow you to reduce the diameter of the butt where the fighting butt will be mounted. Thereby reducing the amount of material you'd need to remove.

"The greatest barrier to discovery is not ignorance, it's the illusion of knowledge" - Daniel J. Boorstin

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Carbon fiber question
Posted by: Tom Kirkman (Moderator)
Date: March 07, 2020 06:29PM

You still have to slide the grip down over the existing butt to get it to the stent. So that wouldn't likely help by much, unless you just wanted to remove the tenon, then shim and install a cap on the stent from behind the grip. Which would sort of negate the reason for needing the stent in the first place since you could do the same thing right on the existing blank.


..............

Options: ReplyQuote
Re: Carbon fiber question
Posted by: Kendall Cikanek (---.dhcp.knwc.wa.charter.com)
Date: March 07, 2020 08:46PM

I use the Matagi Aluminum butt-cap from @#$%& Rods on the CFX casting grips. The outside diameters match down to the hundredth of an inch. They look much better than the foam cap to my eye. I've gotten very thin on the tenon, but have yet to go through or split. I've been prepared to just cut the tenon-off if this were to occur. The inside diameter of the Matagi cap is just slight over .6 inches. Leave .30 or slightly less of blank sticking out past what would then be the bottom of the grip (the depth of the Matagi mortise). Cut fiberglass drywall tape to that width. A couple of rounds will likely get you to .6 inches. Epoxy the cap on and enjoy.

Options: ReplyQuote


Sorry, only registered users may post in this forum.
Webmaster