Haven't used this reel seat yet in a build, and am planning to mount this as an uplocking seat, so the threads are towards the butt end. This being said, can you cut the threads shorter on the toray seat, knowing this is not graphite. Expensive seat, so I did not want to risk ruining it.

Also knowing I will be using this as uplocking, what are you all doing at the front of this real seat (no foregrip). Is this a specific hosel or trim ring. See the example in the link provided, wanted something clean and flush.


[spiraliterods.com]

Jay,
The best idea with any rod is to just leave the reel seat alone.

Yes, I know all of the arguments about matching the rod to the reel, but for many folks the rod will last many more years than the reel. There are also the times where a new reel hits the market and folks want to use the new reel on their favorite custom rod. If, the foot of the reel is longer than the reel seat, there is a problem. Either cut the foot of the brand new reel, or strip the rod to put on a new reel seat.

But, of course, do what works for you and your particular needs.

Not cutting to fit a larger reel, I usually trim down all my graphite seats to eliminate the excess threads that's all. Thanks for the advice though, I agree that I wouldn't cut just for a reel.

Jay,
If you don't mind me asking, but from your e-mail it appears that you may be from the Minnetonka area in MN.?

Take care

I wouldn't cut it. the 1/4 inch or so you'll get weighs next to nothing and the length isn't that big an appearance issue. There is always a risk. However, I believe Toray is simply a specific brand/type of carbon fiber and the methods used on other "graphite" seats should work. High speed, very low feed rate, lots of teeth on the saw or use an abrasive cutter.

I cut (shorten the threads) on almost all reel seats including Batson's Tory seats, both spinning and casting.

Personally: if I needed to shorten (a sometime in the future) Reel foot, in order to fit my rod. I would not cut it either.

But I would GRIND that sucker down shorter in a heat beat!!!!! And have in the past.

They are Toray graphite. If it's a size 16 seat, check into a Fuji WCS check in size 17. Not saying it'll fit but there's a good chance. They fit a 16 Fuji TVS when used uplocking.

Great input guys, guess the trim/hosel will be trial and error for fit

I've trimmed the MVT casting seats threads with zero problems. It cuts like any other "graphite" reel seat. Personally I use a copping saw with a very fine tooth blade. It works great.

As far as something to cap off the end of the reel seat goes ... you might want to consider something that I do, and make a little nub (for lack of a better word) that is turned down to the same OD as the part of the reel seat you're butting it against. As all of the butt caps I have used thus far have been EVA, I use a 1/4 - 3/8" thick piece of EVA that I turn down to match the OD of the (for me) barrel thread. You could do the same with cork if you so choose. Just order a couple of cork rings in the different types available and an ID you can ream to fit, and see what you like. If you are going with a carbon fiber grip. EVA would probably be the material of choice.

So far I've used a black rubber winding check as the finishing touch.

Fuji TVS-16 I.D. at end opposite threads is 16.8 mm. .660in. O.D. 20mm. .780in.

You can for sure trim them, I cut them with a type 1 aluminum oxide cutoff wheel works perfect. As far as the winding check not sure about size 16 but I know a Fuji wcs 17 check fits the size 17 threads perfectly with a little Dremell work to hollow out the inside.