Im looking to build an UL Acid wrap rod. Its primary use will be from vertical jigging lake trout with jigs up to 1-2oz
Im looking at the Black Hole Challenger Bank 691UL, unless anyone has a better suggestion for this application?
I have decided to go with titanium guides. However im lost when it comes to sizes. If anyone has any suggestions it would be very much appreciated.

Will,
The possible reason no one has replied is that they may be confused on what you are trying to accomplish. To me at least, a rod built for 1-2oz jigs would certainly not be considered an UL rod. While any conventional, guides-on-top rod can certainly be spiral-wrapped instead, light rods (loads) will not benefit (anti rod twist) nearly as much as heavier rods (loads). Although with less than 5 years experience, I am comfortable in producing efficient, functioning and handsome rods. However, I find selecting the perfect blank to be quite daunting, and hence, do not feel qualified to answer that part of your question. Consider restating your question to receive more qualified answers.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Apologies, I should have been more clear. I stated UL mainly due to the blank i was thinking of using (Black Hole Challenger Bank 691UL). We can omit UL from the original thread and if anyone has another blank suggestion im all ears. Im simply looking to build a spiral wrapped rod capable of handling 1-2oz jigs in 80ft of water. I have everything picked out except the guides. Which im completely lost on. The tip of the blank ive selected is 1.96mm fast action. I wanted to keep it lite and crisp for setting the hook on finicky lakers.

Will, no apologies required, just open minds.
The only trout fishing I do is in the Sierra and once in a while the Rockies. How big do those lake trout get? All of my trout rods are spinning and my saltwater rods are casting. It is rare I stray very far from the Fuji flock. For medium type freshwater casting rods, many on this site utilize the height of a RV-6 for the stripper followed by 1 or 2 KBs with the remaining runners being KTs of your desired size (4, 4.5, 5). Depending on the method chosen for the spiral, a KW-8, with almost the same height, could be employed to assist off-setting the stripper to help avoid line contact with the blank if that is a concern as it is with me. Hopefully Norman Miller will reply with his vast knowledge.
You have received 140 views but no replies other than mine. As suggested before, consider rewriting, re-titling and reposting if you do not receive any replies here. Good luck.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Will,

That blank is more like a medium / medium heavy blank but Black Hole calls it an Ultra-Light because in their rod / blank line that is the lightest one they carry. I assume that you are looking for something that resembles the specs with those line sizes. You want something 6'6" to 7'2" because it will work the jig the way it is supposed to with the right jerk amount (not overwork or be too long or short). I do not make rods for fresh water but the one you describe is something similar that I would make for light jigging offshore. I would look at the mag bass, medium, medium heavy to heavy blanks with fast to ex-fast action that are rated for up to 18#-20#+ line. I am not familiar with Black Hole so I am going to suggest some blanks that I use because I believe they will work for what you are trying to do. Remember you can cut down blanks up to 4" if needed. This may help get a particular action that you are looking for. Cutting blanks down also slows the action down a little. Fuji Point Blank: PB73HXF. North Fork Composites: SW703-1 (Psi-LMX), SW704-1 (Psi-LMX), MB708-1 (IM), MB7108-1 (X-Ray LMX) & MB7109-1 (X-Ray LMX). The Black Hole blank looks like it would work too.

The guide set up is simple Fuji RV6 followed by KB5s to the last 2 or 3 guides KT5s (depending on the thickness of the rod at the tip section) 9 or 10 guides total. Tip Top ring size 5 if the knots go through easy or 5.5-6 if not or you are using swivels.

Tight Lines,
Lance



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 01/30/2020 11:48AM by Lance Schreckenbach.

Thanks all for the feedback.

I have read that I should use double foot guides for the transition as well. Is taht the case or ar you suggesting i use the KBs for that?

They will get upset if you call it a transition guide on this site, it is a "bumper" guide. I also call it a transition guide even though the line actually begins to transition at the stripper. The KB will work just fine for the bumper but if you want to use double foot guides; I would go to a KW 10 for the stripper then for the bumper a KW 6 or a five (whichever looks better) then the rest 5 mm rings. I think the all KB/KT bumper & runners just have a cleaner look and also weigh a little less (as if it matters on this part of the rod). Look at the Forhan revolver set up, that is what I like to use. Adjust them so that under load the line does not touch the blank and the line is as straight as possible.

Thanks for that info Lance. When it comes to spacing, is there a standard formula?

Static load testing is the standard. On a 6'9" I use 9 guides up to 7' so a 7' to 7'2" would have 10 guides (this does not include the tip top). The first guide would be 18" to 22" from the reel face depending on the length of the handle. The guide closest to the tip top would be 3.25" to 3.75" depending on the stiffness of the blank tip area. There are a lot of downloadable worksheets or apps that you can get if you look on the internet. Find one and use it. It will get you in the ball park then you can tweak it using static load testing. On the spiral don't be afraid to move the guides around to get the line straight and off the blank. It does not have to follow exact degrees as for as placement of the bumper guides. Also make sure the line spools back on the reel evenly before setting the guides in permanently. I usually make a final adjustment after I have wrapped the guides, straightening or adjusting the bumpers. Just be careful because they can come unwrapped.