I am looking for tips for getting the finish around the guide legs
when using a dryer to turn the rod. I have a very hard time getting
the edge of the finish straight.

Lots of people develop a steady hand with practice. I never did. So I wrap a couple wraps of narrow masking tape at the ends of my wraps. I apply my finish to all the guides. Let things set up fifteen to twenty minutes. I go back and remove the tape. It will give a nice clean edge. The epoxy will have enough flow in it to still level out at the ends. You will not end up with a edge of epoxy. Just a nice clean tapered out end on the finish of each wrap.

Thanks but I don't have a problem with getting the edge straight. What happens is everytime the guide comes around I have to pull the brush away or slide it to the side. So I end up with little to no finish directly opposite the guide foot.

Don't apply your finish with the rod locked into and turning under power.

Lots of us let the dryer "free wheel", spin the rod by hand and apply your finish. Once finish is done, lock it into the dryer and walk away.

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Paul,
When I apply finish around the guide foot, I always stop the rod with the guid pointing straight up. Then, I use the brush to insure that the area on the backside of the guide foot is well filled with finish. Then, I turn the wrapper back on that I use when I apply finish and apply finish to the rest of the guide wrap. When, doing this I use a good turn rate on the rod which helps to insure a nice straight edge. I keep the brush angled away from the top of the guide to avoid having the issue with the guide ring pushing the brush away from the rod. Hence the application of finish on the backside of the guide foot before the rest of the wrap is finished.


Take care.

As mentioned stopping the rod works very well. I stop the rod and coat what I can easily. I will then get a fair amount of finish on the brush and apply a fair sized drop on either side of the guide foot. Once the rod is rotating the blob of finish will flow a bit. The tunnel under the guide foot will fill nicely and it will transition nicely to the finish along the rest of the guide wrap.

All great ideas I will be trying them today. Thanks to everyone who responded.

A method that works for us is simply sharpen the handle end of a finish brush in a pencil sharpener.
Then, with the rod stationary and guides facing away, put a drop with the sharpened end on all the tunnel ends.
Works on both 1 or 2 foot guides.
Turn the rod 180 and do it on the other side.
You can also then use that sharp end to "lead" finish around to the back side of the guide.
Doing it while the blank is not moving make the job easier.
I then turn on the machine, rotate it and then finish as usual.

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

Since I do a locking wrap it is hard to get good coverage behind the guide while it is rotating. So after applying finish to the guides while rotating, I stop the rod with the guides facing me. With a dubbing needle or dissecting needle (a needle on a stick) I pick up a small amount of finish from my brush and apply it to the back of the foot. As you will see, the finish will get sucked in and fill any void. Works great. An advantage to stoping the rotation is that it allows excess finish to sag, and the sag can be easily removed giving a nice level finish.
Norm

Paul,
I agree with all of your received replies. The easiest way to momentarily stop the rod from spinning, without having to stop the motor, is to employ a Slip-Clutch which are available from just about any rod building supply business. I could not live without one; I even use it while thread wrapping so I can easily back up if needed and can also be an aid in fine-tuning the thread tension.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Yes the slip clutch is the way to go. I was hesitant to spend the money on one when I was building a drying setup. Tell you what probable the best money I ever spent. I have found have the right tool and quality tools for doing a job makes things much easier and more enjoyable.

my V-blocks have the slip-clutch built in..lol..(just a little v-blocker humor).

Paul

Without a doubt you will find that our slip clutch will make you finishing life easier. The Flex Coat slip clutch is made in the USA in a facility that manufactures parts for airplanes, rockets, and custom guns. The tolerances on our slip clutch are unmatched for trueness. Here is a video about it, go to the 5:50 mark to see the slip clutch in action.
[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Thanks everyone I appreciate all the help. I think I am going to get a slip clutch and try that.