I recently had the abrasive tape come unglued from one of my extreme reamers. I lost probably the first 1/3 of the tape on one of my reamers, it just unwound right off the stick. Is there an easy replacement for the abrasive tape, or do I need to just pony up the $20 and buy a new reamer? Maybe glue a belt sander belt to it?

I just used mine for the first time about a week and a half ago, and noticed the sanding tape was already loose at the very end of the reamer before I even used it. I'll be interested in this answer also.

Strip the adhesive, clean the shaft, pick up some belt sander loops, cut strips, apply contact cement to both paper and shaft, rewrap.

Hello Jason.

MudHole sells reamer tape "Reamer Abrasive (25ft. Roll) SKU: #GX25 $20.29".

A 25' roll will do a lot of reamers.

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

Use contact cement to glue on your abrasive strip. Coat the both reamer and the back of you abrasive strip let dry for 15 min or so and then tightly wrap the abrasive strip onto the the reamer. Contact cement holds up much better to frictional heat than does epoxy. Your reamer set should have come with a few small rolls of abrasive strips, if not buy a large roll
Norm

Mabel an obvious suggestion, but make sure you are rotating/driving it the right way.

Norman Miller Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Use contact cement to glue on your abrasive strip.
> Coat the both reamer and the back of you abrasive
> strip let dry for 15 min or so and then tightly
> wrap the abrasive strip onto the the reamer.
> Contact cement holds up much better to frictional
> heat than does epoxy. Your reamer set should have
> come with a few small rolls of abrasive strips, if
> not buy a large roll
> Norm

Norman is right on with his recommendation. I had the very same problem with a reamer. I followed his recommendations and bingo...it works great!

Don Campbell
don@sensorfishingrods.com

Thank you for the suggestions guys, and thank you Jason for creating a thread I was also curious about. Merry Christmas!



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/23/2019 05:52PM by Jason Koller.

Peel the whole thing off the shaft and sand well - buy some medium grit from MudHole.
Coat shaft with a viscus epoxy - GFlex by West System. Sprinkle a lot of grit onto the wet epoxy.
Press grit into epoxy. Let cure. Wipe excess grit off shaft.
Ready to use. Better than sand paper.
Herb

It also comes off the reamer pretty easy the first couple uses. Then it gets stuck in the grip and can possibly scratch the blank on the way down.

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

The grit option often has problems as Fred mentions above. I quit using them as i ruined 2 blanks from loose grit in the grip.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2019 12:06PM by Phil Erickson.

work slow an try to keep the reamer as cool an you can it will last longer , , heat is not a friend to reamers

William Sidney
AK

Abrasive and video.

[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I've had to repair mine several times, all because of heat breaking the bond between the tape and mandrill. Use contact cement as it is much more heat resistant than epoxy, by far. I haven't had a repaired reamer fail after using this technique for three reasons. 1. Contact cement vs. epoxy. 2. Experience taught me to ream slower, causing less heat buildup. 3. I bought a set of the ultimate reamers at the expo a few years ago and use them for the heavy lifting and the tape for the finishing.

Herb Ladenheim Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> Peel the whole thing off the shaft and sand well -
> buy some medium grit from MudHole.
> Coat shaft with a viscus epoxy - GFlex by West
> System. Sprinkle a lot of grit onto the wet
> epoxy.
> Press grit into epoxy. Let cure. Wipe excess
> grit off shaft.
> Ready to use. Better than sand paper.
> Herb

Never thought about that.
I ream one ring at a time - then epoxy one ring at a time - and shape with lathe right on blank - so don't have that problem.
But even if there was some grit left in bore - wouldn't the epoxy encapsulate it?
There has to be movement for the grit to do harm.
But leaving voids under the grips is why I glue the cork rings on the blank and not a mandrel.
Herb

The abrasive grit is the worse thing to use. The grit does fall off while reaming and can easily get imbedded in your grip. When you test fit you’re very likely to scratch your blank. In my early days of rodbuilding those type of reamers were the norm and from personal experience the will scratch your blank.

Follow Norm's suggestion to the letter. As an old cabinet maker we used the same method for laminating countertops. And since the belt is porous after the first coat dries about 15 minutes and is tacky to the touch but not wet....apply a second coat of contact cement to both the belt and the reamer. Wait again until it is tacky and apply the belt to the reamer. It will never come loose again.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 12/24/2019 05:54PM by Tom Wewerka.