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Fly Rod Class
Posted by: James Van Bruggen (199.48.10.---)
Date: November 21, 2019 02:26PM

I just signed up for a fly rod building class which starts in the new year. They state I do not need to buy anything until after the first class. They also state I will be required to buy a kit or all of the components. However, I know there are likely going to be some holiday sales which could save me money. Since this is my first time building a rod I am trying to devour information on what I need to be looking for in a kit or piecing out my project. This has led me to a few questions.

I understand modulus plays a key role in graphite rods, however, since there is no industry standard, how do you compare apples to apples from one rod blank to another rod blank?

One concern I have if I am to piece out everything is making sure the components fit. Any guidance on this issue?

The instructor did provide four places to look at kits and gave a little background on what to expect. [www.mudhole.com] [www.anglersworkshop.com] [www.jannsnetcraft.com] Are there others worth considering? (side note I have gone through most of the sponsors on the sidebar, but I would hate to miss anyone who sells kits).

I appreciate the advice.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2019 06:23PM by Tom Kirkman.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Laurent Keiff (---.coucou-networks.fr)
Date: November 21, 2019 02:37PM

Modulus is often more of a marketing thing to assess a blank. You may get better advice if you gave us some detail about what and where you intend to fish with your rod.
In any case I'd start saying that rodbuilding is almost fail proof, and extremely addictive, so if you choose a "modest" blank "just to learn", it will probably take dust in a corner while you build a better one (and more). So go for the best for your needs.

_______________________________________________
If I'm not going to catch anything, then I'd rather not catch anything on flies.

Prostaff Rodhouse
[www.rodhouse.fr]

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: James Van Bruggen (199.48.10.---)
Date: November 21, 2019 02:43PM

I plan on fishing small lakes and ponds, sometimes from my kayak, in the Midwest. I am largely going for panfish, trout, and bass. I have been considering a 9' four-piece, 4 or 5 weight.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Bob McKamey (---.se.biz.rr.com)
Date: November 21, 2019 03:11PM

Hello James - In case you missed the MHX Fly Kits on our web-site, I will include a link. There are kits for just what you have listed for a 4 pc., 4, or 5 wt. and also other offerings as well. These fly kits offer exceptional performance at a great value [www.mudhole.com] Thank You

Bob McKamey
Mud Hole Custom Tackle
bobm@mudhole.com



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2019 03:15PM by Bob McKamey.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Lance Schreckenbach (---.hfc.comcastbusiness.net)
Date: November 21, 2019 03:23PM

I would say go with the 5 wt. The rod speed / action is going to be the difference. Do you want to be more relaxed go with a moderate or slow speed and if you want get the most distance with a forward thrust get a fast blank or something in between. Whatever you get you will learn to cast it. A kit is a good way to get started. I have several rods made with MHX (Mudhole) blanks and I really like them. More than likely all the blanks in the different kits come out of the same factory in China. That's not a bad thing because they are producing some good blanks. There are also fiberglass rod kits that would be fun to build.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Laurent Keiff (---.33.16.93.rev.sfr.net)
Date: November 21, 2019 05:46PM

I'll have to second the suggestion of a mhx 905-4. This is one @#$%& of a good blank, seriously above it's price range.
(Even if the NFC's LMX F590 Gammabeta is better, the best one I ever cast, period. But way pricier.)

Now I would also suggest to pick up your own components. This is one of the most fun part of rodbuilding! It's not hard, and sizing is fairly standard. If in doubt, just ask the people you buy from, they'll tell you. Or just ask here.

For guides just take a ceramic insert of your liking (whatever you want) in size 12, then single foot fly guides (or snakes if you prefer) in size 5, 3, then 1 all the way up. Usually you use 10 guides plus tip on a 9', but mhx advise using 11. (I don't listen to them but you do as you please, and that's the beauty of the whole process: your rod, your choices ^ ^)

_______________________________________________
If I'm not going to catch anything, then I'd rather not catch anything on flies.

Prostaff Rodhouse
[www.rodhouse.fr]



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 11/21/2019 05:49PM by Laurent Keiff.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Phil Ewanicki (---)
Date: November 21, 2019 07:19PM

The MHX rods are excellent rods at a reasonable price. I would lean toward the 5wt. or even a 6wt. in case a husky bass happens by. It's surprising how large a bass will take such a small fly. I second Laurent Keiff's excellent advice about your guide train. I would use snake guides. They are more rugged than single-foot guides, will let a larger obstruction/wind knot to pass through, and will give you twice the practice winding on guides! Pick up and handle a couple of rods, one with a "cigar" grip and one with a full wells grip, before you buy the grip for your rod. Decide which one feels best in your hand, and buy that style/size blank for your rod. [I assume you are building a rod to fish with, not to reproduce an antique.] Enjoy!

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Michael Danek (---.alma.mi.frontiernet.net)
Date: November 21, 2019 10:03PM

Agree with snakes, good to go with a reasonably priced blank on the first one. My first was not a prize winner. I think a 6 is too much power for what you want. My son uses a 6 on bonefish on calm days. I'd be more inclined to go with the 4. Use two ceramic guides then one size of snakes to the end. I'd go 16-8-3's. WE've had lots of discussion on where to put the first guide. Many, me included, put them at a distance depending on the comfortable reach of the intended user. While you're handling some rods like Phil advises, pay attention to where that first guide is, too.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Phil Erickson (---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 21, 2019 10:16PM

One comment on your guide train....a size 16 is way too big for a 54 or 5 weight rod! A size 12 is best. The larger they are the higher they protrude and can catch on things when being transported, especially through brush.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Laurent Keiff (37.170.224.---)
Date: November 22, 2019 03:01AM

If you're an avid reader I would also recommend to have a look at Art Schenck's "Fly Rod Building Made Easy" if you can lay your hand on a copy. A most excellent book in all regards, true to it's title, extremely well written and illustrated.

_______________________________________________
If I'm not going to catch anything, then I'd rather not catch anything on flies.

Prostaff Rodhouse
[www.rodhouse.fr]

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: James Van Bruggen (199.48.10.---)
Date: November 22, 2019 08:45AM

Thanks everyone for your input. I look forward to opening the door to this craft.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Lance Schreckenbach (---.sub-174-240-139.myvzw.com)
Date: November 22, 2019 10:45AM

I second Phil's advice on a size 12 stripper. I suggested the 5 because you are going for bass and it is a better all around size for what you are trying to do. On a lake in open water, the wind could also be a factor so the 5wt would be better for this. When I travel anywhere with brown trout, I will always take a 5wt if I don't take anything else. My guide train suggestion: Fuji KW 12 & KW 6 then all Recoil 4 or 3 double foot light duty snake guides (one size on the runners). It would be a total of 10 guides and a tip top (medium loop). I usually do this size rod and smaller with natural color silk thread so you can see the guide feet. I also like the metallic thread for trim bands.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Phil Ewanicki (---)
Date: November 22, 2019 02:24PM

I prefer Recoil light snake guides on 6wt. and lighter fly rods - but with a caution. If one foot of a light REC snake guide receives an accidental push or blow parallel to the rod that foot can "back out" from under the guide wrappings on the side the blow came from. It has happened to me. Since then, I have used a couple of Forhan wraps on each leg of my REC lite snake guides and they have performed beautifully and seem to be bomb-proof. Check the rodbuilding.org glossary for an explanation of how to secure a guide wrap with Forhan wraps. It's easy and only takes a moment.

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Phil Erickson (---.dsl.pltn13.sbcglobal.net)
Date: November 22, 2019 08:44PM

Phil, how do you do a Forhan on a double footed guide? Do you cut the thread coming off the spool?

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Re: Fly Rod Class
Posted by: Phil Ewanicki (---)
Date: November 22, 2019 09:11PM

Yep. Leave 4"-5" of tag end and maintain tension on it until it is pulled under.

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