Just wondering what the point of doing static test with line from tip. I get that it will show true flex of blank but whats the point why not just test it how it will be fished. Something im not getting?

You could do a static bend test on a blank BEFORE you buy it, buy components, attach them to the rod, and apply finish to the rod. That's cheaper than spending money and time and trouble building a rod only to discover you don't like the blank. Rod blank merchants could even report numbers (which can be verified) which describe and quantify the physical characteristics of a blank so you could compare it to blanks you like and would not have to drive across town or across state to find out the FACTS about a blank.

Because improperly spaced guides will cause the blank to flex unnaturally. The idea is to place guides where they're needed, and placing them using static load with the line that loads the blank only being attached at the tip is the way to insure they are in proper place.

Plus, if you are trying to fully load the blank with line running from the reel and through the guides, it would be extremely difficult to secure the guides well enough that they would stay in place, and still be able to move the guide up and down the blank.

Thanks David i wasnt thinking of it like that. I get now that if you go by the guides and though the load may look good you wont realize that you changed the flex if you dont test by tip

It's also a lot easier if you have to add, or substract guide if you don't have to flex and unflex the rod.

The static load will allow you to modify the placement of your guides. Like stated above, an unnatural bend in a blank wlll occur if you place the guides incorrectly. I like to take a piece of mono, tape it at the butt, affix guides on the blank with rubber bands and feed the mono through the guides. I then pull on the mono to see how the bend is. If the guides are off, you will see it immediately. Modify the spacing until you get it right. I normally use the suggested spacing as a starting point then move the guides around until I get the desired placement.

Do any rod blank vendors provide numbers for the ideal locations of the guides on their blanks, or don't they have this hard information: only "smooth" and "medium" and "soulful"?

It would hard for them to provide spacing due to rod builders not all building the rod with the same handle length or reel size & type.

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If I remember correctly, in my initial start-up kit it had a list of ideal spacing for the rod blank I received. This was a CRB blank from Mudhole. That was the only time I used the spacing and didn't move because I just didn't know. Now I just go for the right feel of the spacing. Works for me.

Very good explanation, thanks, guys.

I had not thought of that. Different anglers grip the rod handle at different distances from the butt with different types of reels mounted at different heights, using different lines and weights, making each rod build a unique creation. No-one should recommend any guide choices or guide spacing without knowing these facts - except for information like "smooth" or "fast" or "soulful" or "thrilling".

Getting a bit tiring.

Many blank manufacturers provide guide spacing measurements, these are great starting points priot to doing the static testing.. I n my experience they are almost always spot on or very close.

Keep in mind I only build fly rods, so where one holds the grip is not an issue for guide placement.

Phil Ewanicki Wrote:
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> I had not thought of that. Different anglers grip
> the rod handle at different distances from the
> butt with different types of reels mounted at
> different heights, using different lines and
> weights, making each rod build a unique creation.
> No-one should recommend any guide choices or guide
> spacing without knowing these facts - except for
> information like "smooth" or "fast" or "soulful"
> or "thrilling".



You got it Phil , if you're somebody that just wants to build a rod that works for a variety of reels and lines then following the manufacturers recommendations will work fine but if you're building for ultimate performance you should not follow it because specific reel types , the reels specifications, dimensions and features along with the different line types and line characteristics will be the # 1 factor in determining not only the best possible guide types but the best heights and ring sizes as well .

It's impossible to recommend guides and layouts without knowing specifics about the reel and line choice IF you want the best possible build . I'm talking spinning reels of course .

And you were also correct about handle lengths , each build is indeed a very unique creation.

To expand on the placement, I do my initial spacing without anything on the blank. I then add the grips and reel seat. I attach the reel I am going to use for the blank then adjust the guides to fit the reel more precisely. The spacing is usually pretty close to what I had initially but almost always some adjustments.