Ok lets open a can worms that probable was been opened a thousand times. I am getting a supply order together. Once again I am scratching my head over which finish to order.

I know technique is more important than the finish. My technique is lacking or at the very least rusty. Took a very long break from rodbuilding.. Was building a couple dozen or so a year. Now maybe three or four a year. Just a hobby but still want to produce the best results I can.

Finishing was always my struggle with rodbuilding. I tried all types of finishes. Finally found the Dale Clemens Crystal Coat. Man that product and my technique totally meshed. Did not have to give it any thought. I was going to have a perfect finish every time never an issue. Those rods look great to this day. Once it went away I tried various things and U-40 Dura Gloss LS 2000 became my go to. Every now and then it would give me fits with leveling but another coat always solved the issue. Then I stepped away from. Accident left me only only able to count to 8 and half on my fingers. Frustration of not finding a rod I wanted finally overcame the frustration of wrapping a rod.

First couple rods I tried prokote. Heard it was the latest greatest.It was ok. Issue I had was it seemed kick off without warning. Was nice and workable one second next dip of the brush it was gelling. Quality of finish probable was matching my abilities. So probable can get to a point of a fairly decent finish with some practice. Could of leveled a bit better but not bad enough to try another coat and end up with sags or footballs..

Next I tried LS Supreme. Figured it should be similar to my past experience with LS 2000. Not even close. My technique and this finish are not even close to being compatible. Either not enough finish or too much cannot get it to level. Either holes in the finish or sags and footballs. Can have perfect looking finish when wet. After turning to a point of setup epoxy has migrated somewhere and left me sags a bulges somewhere on the wrap.

So do I continue with the prokote and hopefully learn the finish. Or is there something else that would be a closer match to the finishes of the past I am familiar with.

I have a feeling the finish isn't the problem, it's you getting used to a finish, and it to you. I went through this quite a few years ago, tried Clemens Crystal Coat and hated it, still have it sitting on the workbench. Rather than go into a long dissertation on the virtues of any given finish, I use threadmaster regular and like it, but I don't think it's the finish as much as I just got used to using it. Try threadmaster and D2, they're about the only finishes left, again it's not the finish as much as it's your technique with any chosen finish.

There is a product called Klass Koat and it is what Clemens packaged as their Crystal Coat. It is a paint, not a casting resin, but some like it. Apparently you did and since it is still available you might do a google search and acquire some more to try.

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Anglers Workshop has an epoxy paint/top coat in their lure making section..

I've never experienced "kick off." Are you using syringes to measure? In my experience, if properly measured, wrap epoxy reaction times are very consistent. I have used Pro Kote, and it's fine if one has the patience to accept its long cure time. I normally use Flex Coat Lite..

I always liked D-2, but would prefer it a bit thinner. I've been getting nice results with Threadmaster Lite and it sets up pretty quickly after application.. Can't wait to try Flex- Coat Lite, but I don't build enough to have a bunch of different finishes on hand. I totally agree about LS Supreme.

Try CTS CrystalCoat. Great working time and levels beautifully. Cure time is long around 24hrs till recoat going off my experience and workshop intervals but the finish is just amazing!

Michael Danek Wrote:
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> I've never experienced "kick off." Are you using
> syringes to measure? In my experience, if
> properly measured, wrap epoxy reaction times are
> very consistent. I have used Pro Kote, and it's
> fine if one has the patience to accept its long
> cure time. I normally use Flex Coat Lite..

Always measure with syringes. As for the "kick off" I have experienced it is not to a point of unusable. Would go from the consistency of a very light finish to that of a thick high build finish without much warning. Hard to get a technique down when your trying to work with essential two different products at some point of finishing the same rod. Had this happen with three different batches. Could it be something I am doing , sure. Cannot figure what. Very diligent about my measuring and mixing routine.

Anyways I am going to play around with Pro Kote some more, but also try the threadmaster light. Klass Koat intrigues me. Found a lot of conflicting info about using it for rodbuilding though. Properties people describe don't match what I remember.Combine that with the cost, about 50 bucks with shipping, I will take the time to learn a new finish.

Thanks for all the input.

How long is the time between finishing your mixing and the "kickoff?" As mentioned above Pro Kote is known for is slow cure.

About 15 minutes of working the rod. Long rod 11 guides plus ferrule and butt wrap.I mix about five minutes then pour out on a foil tray and let sit for for about five minutes for bubbles to dissipate. So about 25 minutes from mix to kickoff. I know I am near the end of potlife of the Prokote.I know any finish will thicken as you approach the end of potlife. But it has always been a slow progressive thickening. Kinda predictable. Not from one guide to the next like I experience with the Pro kote.