Who makes the best Color Preserver as the best color that I can get.

Glenn McMurrian

Maybe John Cates will chime in here.

I'm going to say the best color preserver is NO color preserver. The finish soaks into the threads way better without it. It's a more subtle look without color preserver, but it's a better rod. There are many who will not have this opinion but try it for yourself and decide. Color preserver is an unnecessary, and undesirable step, in my opinion.

Drew

Drew Pollock Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> I'm going to say the best color preserver is NO
> color preserver. The finish soaks into the
> threads way better without it. It's a more subtle
> look without color preserver, but it's a better
> rod. There are many who will not have this
> opinion but try it for yourself and decide. Color
> preserver is an unnecessary, and undesirable step,
> in my opinion.
>
> Drew


For the most part you are right I never do use C P but this is for a decretive wrap which will be done in nylon so I will need some good C P.

Glenn McMurrian

No CP is fine except when you want vibrant colors. There is no way to get a bright candy apple red wrap with good looking depth (non CP thread looks a little flat compared with regular nylon + CP) unless you use CP. I've found the Flex Coat and U40 CP's work fine. I've had trouble with a clear CP, but that was many years ago, so is probably irrelevant.

The main thing is to use them as directed and let them dry thoroughly. I stir mine as directed, apply it as directed, use two coats just in case the first doesn't get into the tunnels properly, let each coat dry overnight, and I've had no trouble. It is best not to order through the mail in the winter (in the north) as freezing can damage the CP.

Whichever brand you choose - don't thin the CP. Use full strength. One or perhaps two full wet applications.

...............

Thread Master Chromoseal

Dennis J. Danku
(Sayreville,NJ)

I've used Chromoseal and like it, but have been using U40 as of late and think that may do a little better than the Chromoseal.

I agree with Drew while acknowledging we may be in the minority.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Drew, can you actually verify your statement that no CP is the best? I used FlexCoat CP on some flyrods that never got coated with an epoxy finish. I also never had any issues as a result.

I frequently use multiple coats of CP over regular nylon thread. I have found that more coats can really make a difference in the overall color and sheen of the thread. I have used up to 6 coats, maybe even 7. And no issues from them. None! One can argue all they like as to bonding to the blank by omitting the CP. I won't argue the point. I have built a great many saltwater rods and never had one fail doing it my way. Everyone can do what makes them happiest. This IS about custom rodbuilding after all.

Glenn, currently, I often use one that can be bought from a builder/distributor in Louisiana for various reasons. I am still using FlexCoat CP. Different products for different desired results. If doing a closed wrap and also using NCP type threads, I always opt for CP. If doing an open wrap, I find it helpful to lay down a base wrap of a lighter thread color. This, combined with a CP, will help the colors of regular nylon threads really stand out.

While a also agree with Drew as to the better bonding i cannot say that it makes a better rod , casting and fishing two rods that are identical with one using CP and the other not using it is something i think most would not be able to distinguish differences between . Certainly could be wrong but that's my view of it.

Such bonding isn't needed. Wraps with CP are more than strong enough. You can go straight epoxy, but there is no practical gain. Once you have "more than enough" then "even more than more than enough" isn't buying you anything.

..............

CP WORKS GOOD AND DOESN'T MESS UP YOUR ROD. THE BEST IS FLEX COAT.
John please send me my goodies!

Yeah i figured that it wasn't needed , i actually like the idea of having an easier time of removing guides if one had the need or interest to do that down the line because on rods that do not use CP the remnants that you have to chip away at (Cured pieces of epoxy) that is left over after removing the main guide is a time consuming process and not fun.

I might of even considered using CP on wraps for that reason alone if i knew down the line i may want redo the whole thing .

Not sure what all the prodding is about but, yes, we at Flex Coat have our opinions on all aspects of rod building, not just color preserver. Ours is great. As far as the best, well you tell me. We do believe that using any color preserver on the wrap that holds the guide down makes for not as strong a bond versus epoxy alone, as alluded to several times above on both sides of the issue. Fancy butt wraps, if you are into that kind of thing, and who am I to judge, yes color preserver is definitely called for and probably a must. Color Preserver also works well over decals to tamp down most silicone contamination problems. Just our opinions and how we do it. I apologize if I have offended anyone in the past or present. It is not my intention. We aim to make the best products out there for custom rod building and share our philosophy of how and why. We always look for input and take it very seriously. Regards

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

Witch is someone who rides on a broom stick on Halloween.
Which, is a word that asks a question.

But, in any event - perfect time of the year for a typo.

Enjoy the season and may your seasonal wraps be orange and black.

Take care

'Chromaseal' the best bar none!!!! especially if you do weaves and dec wraps.

Jersey, Channel Islands. (U.K.)

Didn't mean to prod you John, I respect your opinion. I have no problem with Flex-coat when I use CP. My real intent was to draw your attention to the original post.

Copy that. Just wasn't sure. Maybe between yours and Lance's I read into it a bit.

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com

I prefer Chromaseal on thread because it's thinner and soaks in really well, and seeps into tunnels really well. I never have issues with dark blotching with Chromaseal like I have with Flex Coat. But if I use it over a decal it beads up like rain on a freshly waxed car.
Flex Coat seems to have better adhesive properties so it's better for coating a decal to seal the edges, and it's better for gluing down feathers.

John S.

John Shear
Chippewa Falls, WI