I just finished up my butt wrap where I added some CP to it. I would like to wipe it down with some mineral spirits before applying the epoxy. Ive never used mineral spirits before, so I wanted to check with the experts before I mess up my thread work.

Will wiping down the rod mess up the CP?

Is there such a thing as 'too much' when it comes to mineral spirits that might not dry which then affects the epoxy when applied?

Hello Ken.

Never do a chemical wipe-down just before epoxy.
Yes it can mess up the CP.
And yes to much is too much.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/16/2019 03:24PM by Robert A. Guist.

nothing between CP and finish except maybe another CP coat..lol.

Ken,
DON’T DO IT! You should already have a clean surface (CP over thread) which is ready for epoxy. Mineral spirits is more oily than acetone or DNA and even those two should not be wiped on a blank, let alone thread, prior to epoxy without scuffing first. I am certain Tom and Roger will reply.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Wow, ok, good thing I asked.

I do have a blank I want to strip down and start over with. Would it be ok to use the mineral spirts on that after I take off the excess epoxy?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 09/16/2019 03:36PM by Ken Brown 2.

Once you get to the CP point no further cleaning should be necessary.

As for the project blank I would not use mineral spirits for any of the operations. If you want to use solvent I would use any of the following, Xylene, Acetone, Ethyl-methyl alcohols.

These solvents can be hazardous, so you have to use them sparingly with great care in ventilated areas and wear protective equipment ( gloves and eye shields).

John

Mineral spirits and anything to do with rod building is prescription for a disaster! If you need a solvent for some purpose use Acetone or DNA, even then be sure you really need it!

10-4 on Phil's comments.

Rod building and mineral spirits can not even be in the same world, much less the same room. NEVER NEVER.

If I happen to see a bit of dust or similar, I will use low tack blue painters tape to tack off the wraps before another coat of finish or anything else. No solvents at all after the blank has been initially cleaned.


Take care

10X on Phil and Roger’s comments (and the others for that matter). Within rodbuilding, mineral spirits (and the like) are only a half-step better than silicone! As for Xylene; it is really nasty poo poo and I avoid it if at all possible.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

The main thing to be taken away here, is that unless you've done something extreme, there is no need for a "final wipe down" on rod building components. I remain convinced that so many problems in rod building are caused by rod builders who, for some reason, decide to do things that simply aren't necessary. Try doing less.

............

Here here Tom. I agree with that. Use Citri-Strip to remove old finish from blank.

Thanks for all the response. I thought for sure I read here previously that mineral spirits was ok. That is appearently NOT the case.

How about turpentine?

Don't forget grain alcohol. No residue

Phil Ew.
Are you serious about turpentine?

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Ken and others:

When wondering about a particular wipe down for a rod or spot - try an experiment before you do the task.

Mix up a small batch of finishing epoxy and then, put a small amount of the liquid that you plan to use on the rod blank or components.

In a glass jar so that you can see what is happening, mix the liquid in with the finishing epoxy and then let it sit for 24 hours and see how it looks.

Essentially you are looking for a solvent or a liquid that will mix with and become part of the new chemical composition.

At the end of the time, you want to see 0 separation of the new liquid and the finishing epoxy in the final product. If there are bubble or areas where the introduced liquid does not blend seamlessly with the finishing epoxy, you want to keep that liquid away from any rod building.

By only using a product that will in fact become part of the rod finish will allow you the - builder - to work easily, and effortlessly for a perfect finish every time.

------------------
Having said that --
Rule #1 to rule # 1,000 --- DO NOT put any liquids or solvents of any kind on a rod blank, once you have begun to build on the blank.

Liquids and solvents by their very nature - simply lead to problems. Avoid the problems by avoiding any liquid to contact the blank - once the build has started.

Be safe

SOMEBODY had to ask, and the suspense was killing me.