If I read the original post correctly, this rod was in use for almost a year. Who know what kinds of possible contaminates were on the rod! Certainly oil from fisherman's hands, perhaps fish slime and anything else it could have come in contact with. To expect to apply epoxy, which can be touchy at times under these conditions without some issues is questionable.

Oh Tom, one other thing, I'm just trying to learn whatever quirks LS Supreme has compared to what I'm used to, that's all. I'm not prepared to abandon a calculated decision I've made. I bought a lot of it (I bought 72 ounces of it). I just need to learn how it works and how it's different, that's all. There is no doubt it is different. And, yes, I had to add more to get it to settle down, I just had add a little bit on there (plus I'm talking about a couple minutes later...not some long period of time). I do think it doesn't level like FlexCoat does, it's different, that's all.

I made this decision for good reason and I'm very interested in the LS part of this product. I've only had one finish go bad and it was on a rod I built for myself. The finish was FlexCoat and the color preserver was as well. The rod is roughly 18 years old. It was only black and gold. A Chevron wrap. Well, for some reason the color preserver failed and it turned the top half to an almost green color and basically washed it all out to an almost goldish green color. It took about 15 years to fail. Get this, it didn't happen on the guides! This is why I made the switch. I switched from RadDancer to the LS Supreme because I felt it was an even better finish with the LS benefits. Plus, almost everyone who uses it gives it high marks. No, the problem is me. I have to learn what I need to do differently.

Mark Talmo, really good advice. I'm going to try and clean the rod with a product from KBS Coatings called KBS Klean it's probably similar to Windex. I've used it extensively for my composite rear grips and my cored exotic wood spinning reel seat inserts. I spray them both with KBS DiamondFinish Clear...a Urethane finish. I am so impressed with the outcome I'll try it to clean this rod with it as well. It's water based and super concentrated. I'm not all that fond of Simple Green and Windex has ammonia in it. Might as well minimize everything. I'm also going to try to add just a tiny bit of the Fisheye solution. Then I'll try it all. I just wish I knew what to expect. I'm just not used to this.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/28/2019 10:48PM by Tom Harder.

Yes Phil, you're right. I did mention much of that earlier though.

Thanks!

Now I have another question; What am I supposed to clean my syringes out with if not for Acetone, Lacquer Thinner or Denatured Alcohol? And if it's okay, then how will that not potentially contaminate the finish? And what about cleaning of Sable brushes? Instructions say to use U-40 Brush Cleaner (which I have), Lacquer Thinner or Denatured Alcohol. Some of the reasoning above doesn't make sense to me (I know I'm slow). Since there is a chance of cross contamination, is it the finish that sensitive?

Thanks,

Tom



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2019 12:43AM by Tom Harder.

Okay, as I prepared to apply a second coat (actually third) I cleaned the entire Rod with something like Windex

Mixed up enough LS Supreme and I added a tiny amount of Upol Fisheye eliminator (same as Smoothie). I dipped the small pointed end of my spatula in the solution about half way and let it run off and what was left on the tip of the spatula went into the LS Supreme. So, a very small amount. First of all, it does appear I indeed had some kind of silicone contamination, or whatever could prevent it from sticking, so with this next coat there were no "fisheyes". So I think many of you were on it right away. What confused me was that I worked on each guide scuffing them with a Scotch Brite pad. In my mind I thought the Denatured alcohol cleaned it up. I think it was still present. It also might have explained why it was spotty.

Anyway, the finish went on with little issue and it leveled beautifully. But, it took longer to level than I normally would expect. Especially given how thin it's consistency. I tend to want to work it until it's right, well, with LS Supreme, you're much better off letting it do it's thing. Get it close (be comfortable with it not looking perfect), move on and try not to touch it anymore.

But I think it also became clear that Tom's contention about the Denatured Alcohol. What normally happens with fisheyes, at least in my experience, you'll get it right, come back shortly and the material has moved away from the contamination. None of that this time. There was this one spot I described before on the wrap as wavy, that has me convinced of what Tom described. I had no such misbehavior this next coat.

I will say this though, this stuff keeps on leveling for quite a long time.

Thanks for the input everyone, I learned much from you and I very much appreciate it.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2019 05:24AM by Tom Harder.

No need to clean syringes. Just keep them separate and maintain use of one for resin and the other for hardener.

If you have the U40 Brush Cleaner, you can simply put some in a cup, wipe the brush on a paper towel, dunk the brush in the cup and switch it around and then wipe it off and put it away. The brush cleaner doesn't evaporate very quickly so it's possible to leave the brush in for up to several weeks before the stuff will evaporate or you need to add more. Some guys never remove their brushes from the U40 Brush Cleaner. Just leave them in until the next use.


............

Thanks Tom, that's pretty much what I did with my brush. I keep those round plastic brush covers that come with my brushes so I slide that over it and keep it in a ziplock. Do you know what the brush cleaner is made of? I can't identify it by smell but I think it's a mix of a couple of different chemicals.

I'll consider that on my syringes. I typically fill them with cleaner, squirt it all back into the cleaner and then blot out the rest. Keep those in a ziplock as well.

Quite an experience this Silicone was, hope I don't revisit this again any time soon.

Thank you!

Tom

Tom H.,
All said and done, I and presumably everyone else are glad to hear you finally achieved the finish wanted. I do not consider the silicone additive to be a cure but rather a Band-Aid on the problem. But drastic times can demand drastic measures. Sometimes it is better to apply a Band-Aid rather than bleeding all over the place. Congratulations on your perseverance!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Absolutely Mark. I've had this Fiesheye Eliminator sitting in my shop for a couple of years and never used it. It will also come in handy if I have issues spraying my composite rear grips. I do know that when Silicone turns up in one's shop it seems to spread out and shows up in odd and unexpected places. Having the Fisheye Eliminator on hand means I'll be able to solve these problems right here and right now so I'm really glad I have it. At the same time silicone may not have been my issue, it may have been due to the remnant Denatured Alcohol that Tom suggested.

Right now I'm just glad it's solved. I just took those guys to the airport for their Alaska trip so I'm super relieved that it's solved and on it's way to Alaska! I'm confident that my customer won't care in the least about the finish as he's catching one Salmon after the other up in Cold Bay Alaska! So, thanks for the suggestion Mark. Same for you other guys suggesting a possible silicone contamination!!



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/29/2019 03:35PM by Tom Harder.

I don't care for that particular finish. Tested it on a couple of wraps, gave it away.