Tom,
Thank you for re-printing Ralph O’Quinn’s article on “Amine Blush” in the latest issue of RodMaker Magazine. While amine blush (or “a mean rush” as we used to joke) will always occur with the structural epoxies I used in the composite industry unless the surface of the laminate was sealed in a vacuum-bag or wrapped in some fashion, its occurrence with thread finish epoxies is much less prevalent in the rod build world. In fact, I have never experienced it while building rods, or at least so I thought. But it can happen and yet easily removed with soap and water. Left on the surface, the waxy film certainly hinders proper adhesion of subsequent coats.
I learned from Mr. O’Quinn that amine blush is caused by the precise, combined amounts of humidity and CO2 in the atmosphere. That immediately made me think of a very effective method, learned on this site, to release entrapped air bubbles in thread epoxy while mixing; blowing on the mixture through a straw. When we exhale, the predominate gas released is CO2. Further, when examining the straw after blowing through it, condensation is obvious on the inside. Again, at least with our thread epoxies, the precise ratio and quantities of moisture and CO2 have to be present for amine blush to occur.
When a heavy thread coating is desired, as with my saltwater rods, 80% of the time the finish turns out perfectly with two or possibly three coats. The other 20% of the time, the surface is just a bit lumpier than preferred. Could it be caused by blowing through the straw? I do not know for sure but the possibility exists.
I posted this in hopes of helping those with thread finish woes. It seems such woes are discussed quite often here on the site. As Mr. O’Quinn noted, different parts of the country have different atmospheric conditions, some at times prime to produce amine blush. While this may not be a solve-all, at least it is fuel-for-thought and consideration.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

I have noticed no ill effects from doing this. It takes but a very few seconds to release any bubbles from my mixed finish and the same should I see any on a coated wrap. I'm not saying it's not possible, just that I've not had it happen. While moisture can form inside the straw, it doesn't happen instantly. Yours truly, Heavy breather.

Mark,
Exactly.
That is why if you want to blow on finish, use a fan , a hair dryer or a heat gun - with or without the heat turned on.

For every rod that I build, I quickly apply guide finish to all of my wraps including the butt wraps. I spin the rod quickly during this time that allows me to get sufficient finish on the guide wrap in question and the speed of the turning blank allows me to have very clean eadgs on the wrap.

Then, after getting sufficient finish on the wraps to be sure that I will have sufficient finish - I will start at the butt wrap and use the heat gun to apply GENTLE heat with quick passes one or two times. This does two things. It slightly heats the finish, it thins the finish and if there are any bubbles the moving air removes the bubbles.

I will then, go quickly down the rod, repeating for each guide wrap.

Then, I go back to the butt wrap again and do a final inspection with magnification and a very bright light to be sure that the finish is perfect. The total time for finish application, and finish clean up for the three passes is generally less than 5 minutes per rod.

I use standard Flex Coat for my builds and using this method normally requires no more than 1 coat for a perfect finish. In perhaps 10% of the cases, I will have to add a 2nd coat for a wrap or two on a guide wrap if there was something obstinate about that particular wrap.

But, the use of moving air - from the heat gun used at a distance really helps with the bubbles and since it is room air, the moving air contains no more CO2 than any normal room air.

Best wishes

I've been gently blowing on my epoxy with a straw after coating for a few years now. I don't use heat. My breath causes any bubbles to break and you can actually move the coating a little with your breath to eliminate lumpiness if necessary. I also blow on the finish with a straw after pouring it out on to foil before applying it; any bubbles in the poured out finish just disappear so you're left with a totally bubble free puddle. I don't know if it's helped with the number of bubbles you get during application, but it hasn't hurt either.

Roger, by the time you get the fan, it's all over with. When I was but a wee lad I played the trombone, it came equipped with a spit valve. I've never found it useful on a straw.

Lynn,
You can be hilarious at times, and this is a prime example! From now on, I will refer to you as “The Spit Valve Boy”!!!

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Lynn,
That is why my heat gun is always plugged in when I am doing rod finishing. Grab it and flip the switch. Almost as quick as taking a breath to blow.

Be safe

I have been using the straw/blow method for many years and never had a Amine blush issue on the build. The only Amine blush issue I have dealt with is customers who have put rods away damp. I quick application of a hair dyer or heat gun clears it up.

Mark, I'm not sure I care much for my new title! Roger the heat gun is a great method, one of these days I'll get one. Phil, back in the Dale Clemens Crystal Coat days we were taught to use it as a blank finish by dipping fingers in mixed finish and rubbing it on the blank. You wanna see amine blush in damp conditions! Up and down the whole blank. It did always clear up though. Guess that's why I'm not allergic to epoxy, I was vaccinated.

Some vaccination!