I'm building a 9'8" lamiglas steelhead casting rod. My first this long. My question is would 14 to 15" up be acceptable to mount the seat? It feels pretty balanced when mocked up. I kind of like the long handle as well. It will be a split grip because quite honestly this butt section on the blank is rather gorgeous.
Thanks as always for input.
Mark



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/23/2019 09:06PM by Mark D Schulte.

Perfect. Very common to have a rear grip of this length with the reel in the position you posted.

Good luck

Mark D.S.,
While the balance of a rod is generic and/or subjective, I find it impossible to “balance” even a 7ft trout rod without adding weight to the extreme butt which I refuse to do. To include a split-grip would only enhance the rod to be more tip-heavy. From information gathered here on this site, I have learned to build as light as possible and let the “balance” fall where it may. That observed and practiced method has proven to work extremely well for me.
As for the seat distance on a 10ft rod, I would consider moving it out to at least 16in, possibly even more. Hopefully Norman Miller, others as well, will contribute with their vast, veteran wisdom. I am here to learn as well.

Mark Talmo
FISHING IS NOT AN ESCAPE FROM LIFE BUT RATHER A DEEPER IMMERSION INTO IT!!! BUILDING YOUR OWN SIMPLY ENHANCES THE EXPERIENCE.

Wouldn't go past 14". If you want more balance add a bit of weight to the butt of the blank. Thats normally what I do with all my steelhead rods.

X2 with Denham, you don't want to have a grip length that snags your clothes. Rain gear etc. needs room.
14 inches for casting rods around 12 inches for spinning, this puts the length behind your hand when holding the rod at the reel. Don't concern yourself with balance, build as light as you can, especially the guide train and the sensitivity will be there.

I never really cared about balancing a rod at the reel location. The only time I may be effective is when you are soaking bait . If casting and retrieving a lure or jigging the weight and drag of the lure combined with the lever action of the rod will surely make it tip heavy let alone when a fish is hooked up . Unless you want it to hang nice on the wall to me it’s a moot point. Build to be light weight .

Freddwhy (Rapt-Ryte)

If it feels good to you in your mock up, go with it. Handle length is a personal thing, and is one of things that makes a custom rod custom.
Norm

Good points from Spencer.

A nice thing about a long handle on a 9 foot steel head rod, is that you can can tuck the handle under your arm when fighting a big fish.

Take care

I like a having a full handle on my steelhead rods so the tip feels lighter but it's all personal preference. Mock it up and test cast it. I build a NFC 6-12 casting spiral wrapped drift rod and it's the nicest I have ever fished.

Mark, mock up your grips, tape your guides on and take a few test casts with the rod. I’ve done this on several occasions and it typically only takes a few casts to get dialed in. I would think that 14-15” would be a good starting point for a steelhead rod.

Jeremy

You don't have to guess, tape some arbors so the reel seat can slide with tension, install guides and reel.
Put your fishing clothes on and slide things around till you have what you like, just he advised back in the early morning 90's we went with loge rods to cast our light offering further and to be able to hold more line out of the water, improving our drift and lure depth. If you need max sensitivity use a short rod, everything requires some compromise.

You don't have to guess, tape some arbors so the reel seat can slide with tension, install guides and reel.
Put your fishing clothes on and slide things around till you have what you like, just he advised back in the early morning 90's we went with loge rods to cast our light offering further and to be able to hold more line out of the water, improving our drift and lure depth. If you need max sensitivity use a short rod, everything requires some compromise.