I have attempted to post photos of the damage I will describe below, but they are not uploading.

This is the same 13 wt fly rod I proposed repurposing into a spinning rod.

The damage is a friction burn caused when I jerry rigged the blank in my cork lathe to reshape the handle. I used a rubber band over a cloth to apply downward pressure because the blank kept jumping out of the cradle. (No, I didn't think it through and have been kicking myself ever since).

The burn is approximately 1/8" wide and extends from the spine of the blank around to the bottom of the blank (guide side) on the right side. Basically a semicircle around the blank. It is about the depth of a sheet of paper. It is 4" above the short cork foregrip, and 4-1/2" below the first stripper guide.

It doesn't sound like much, but considering its intended use (big fish) and the area where it is, I'm pretty sure it is a catastophic failure waiting to happen.

My initial repair was to wrap it with thread from 1-1/4" above and below creating a 2-1/2" bandaid with 2 coats of Flex Coat slow cure epoxy. Upon further thought, with the wraps circling the same direction as the damage, I don't think it would be very effective.

Sleeving the area with a piece of blank seems like it would be the only effective repair. My concern is that the sleeve would create a flat spot in the blank. I'm not worried about casting action, a 13 wt is already a broomstick. I'm concerned the flat spot would create weak points above and below the sleeve when fighting a fish into the butt section. I'm guessing the correct choice is a lower modulus, slower piece of blank as the sleeve, then wrapping that with thread to hide it. Maybe fiberglass blank section?

I have zero experience with this, so any suggestions are welcomed.

Also, if you happen to have a piece of material you believe would be appropriate I would be happy to pay for it, and shipping. I have a paypal account.

My blank is a G Loomis gl3, 3 pc, 13 wt.

Thanks



Edited 2 time(s). Last edit at 08/04/2019 08:15PM by Adam Ganshirt.

I would wrap the blank with a short piece of fiberglass cloth, full 360 degrees, bond it to the blank. Then test it. Do a dead lift test on it to see if it will take being bent to 90 degrees. If yes, no problem. If no, go on to something else.

Most likely if the damage is as thin as a sheet of paper it will not involve the fibers of the blank, the wrap will be overkill, and all will be OK.

Which section is the issue on? At what point is it on the section? A measurement from the bottom of it could help as well. What are the OD dimension at said "burn" point?

And frankly, at that miniscule of a depth,although the damage may extend deeper, I wonder how much of a mountain you may be making of a molehill. Why not just find a thread color that matches the blank, or wrap a section of the rod measuring one inch on each side of the burn,with natural colored silk and coat it in multiple layers over that for some external reinforcement, with Permagloss? Or a similar product. Then fish it until it breaks and call it good. A rod life lived well and fully.

Damage is in the butt section, 26" up from the end of the fighting butt. O.D. at the burn is approximately 1-5/16ths inches. The old Loomis gl3 blanks don't have a clear coat finish like newer blanks, it's just the bare material.

Adam, this is what I would do with it. I'd lay down a wrap of thread that matched the guides. Be sure to match the wrap with tipping or inlays to match the stripper if you wish. Coat it with several layers of a pre-catalized urethane finish. I use a product that none of the advertisers/supporters of this forum carry. Then, I'd use a metallic gel pen to write my name on it, coat it with CP and let dry sufficiently. Then coat it with more finish of your choice. Call it good. If the rod breaks at some point, hang it on a wall. Tell the great story of the one that broke your rod and got away. Even it the breaks, I hope you get the fish. An 8x10 framed picture of the fish is an added bonus.

Adam,
If you have guides on the rod, remove them.
Then, put a 3 inch long oversleeve on the damaged area.
Wrap the ends of the oversleeve to avoid any splitting of the oversleeve from tension.
You are close enough to the butt section of the blank that any slight stiffness in that area of the blank, will be for all intents and purposes - negligible.

Put guides on the rod and finish as usual.

Enjoy the use of the rod with no fear of breakage in the damaged area.

Good luck

The sleeve as Roger suggests is the sure way to ensure it won't break. If only one or two guides to remove, not a big deal. If you can find a glass sleeve, great, but even if a sleeve from a cheap graphite rod is used, I don't think you'll have a flat spot in the action. I repaired one a little farther up once and it works great.

Thanks everyone for the help. I think I will try to sleeve the damage with a short section of blank, then wrap it to match my guides. Any suggestions on where to purchase a donor blank that won't cost an arm and a leg?

Go to your local sporting good stores and see if they have any broken rods. A lot of times they will just give them to you. Or check with a local rod builder, most will have a stash of broken rods and may be willing to find a piece that will fit. Flea markets, Salvation Army, Good will, other types of junk shops, even your fishing friends may have junk rods. Just look around.
Can also use an internal plug to reinforce under the damaged area, but would require removing the butt cap.
Norm

A thread wrap will not add any protection for the type of damage you indicate. If the damage is deep enough to get into the carbon fibers, an over sleeve is probably your best bet.

No need for an internal plug. You don't want to make the repair area too stiff.

Go to the salvation army, good will or pawn shops to pick up very inexpensive blanks.

Also a lot of sporting goods dealers have donation boxes where broken or unwanted rods are left. If you have a need for a particular rod or blank from the box, just talk to the sales associate in the area and they will likely give you as many of them as you can use.

Take care

I never thought to ask retailers about broken/damaged rods. Thanks I'll give that a shot. Maybe I'm getting too particular thinking the repair piece needs to be from a "high end" manufacturer?



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 08/06/2019 10:34AM by Adam Ganshirt.

The repair sleeve is better if not from a "high end" rod. Since the outer diameter of the sleeve is greater than the blank being repaired, it will be more rigid based on the diameter, not the modulus. It is better to have a lower modulus sleeve to balance/match the characteristics of the blank.