What is the secret to eliminating guides for a lighter weight as opposed to sticking with manufacturers guidelines? How do you really test to see if it will work and how do you know which guide to eliminate?

No secret. Just a bit of repetitive locate guides, test, and repeat.

And no eliminating a specific guide - it's a rearrangement of the "original" or suggested number of guides minus 1 or 2.

Be careful assuming a blank manufacturer's recommendations for the number of guides and their locations can always be improved by using 1 or more fewer guides. Sometimes it works and sometimes not so well.

Bottom line (pun intended) is the line must follow the curve of the rod under strress so as to distribute the stress of fighting a fish (or making a cast for that matter) in a manner consistent with the rod's taper. Most buildersa use static load testing to determine how load stress is being distributed. And some builders will then follow up with test casts to further refine guide locations.

Sorry, there just is not a straight forward, one size fits all formula or secret.

Check the online library here for several articles on custom guide placement.

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I asked the same type of questions a while back and learned to stay away from going with say 40,30,25,20,16,12,8 etc...and choose guides based on only whats needed to tame the line as quickly as possible and get the line running as straight as possible . For a spinning reel the table edge method is a good way to determine what would be an effective reduction train and that article can be found in the library ( Link below) . I choose guide types and sizes based on the line i will be using and the reel specs . I don't switch out and use different reels with different rods like some do i build very specifically for a single reel and line type and size.

I also learned that going with the smallest running guides that will pass the line and knots you use will pay off in performance .


[www.rodbuilding.org]

X2 on Herb's comment. Is it a "custom" rod if you follow the manufacturers guidelines? Build for the reel and use the correct amount of guides or you will take away from the performance. You can tape and tie wrap guides and move them around to what you think works best. For placement start with measurements from your best rod then tweek it till it performs better. Guide ring and frame material can also make huge differences in weight. The reel weight can also make a difference, so what is the point of making a light rod when you are just going to mount a heavy reel on it. It is like a road bike; the lighter the more expensive.