I will be building a Calstar RT130 5.5 with a bent butt and alps rollers, I wanted to see what type of methods people utilize to static test guide placement on rods this beefy. Any advice or tips would be appreciated. Thanks!

Not familiar with these rods, but cannot imagine the process is any different. just lots more weight!

Use the two line method for doing the static test. Pass the line from the reel through the guides and tip top and tie on a light weight and let it hang from the tip of the rod. Now tie another line to the tip top and attach this line to an immovable object or a very heavy weight. Doing it their way the rods bends naturally and the bend is not influenced by the guides, plus guides will not torque and twist of of line since no pressure is on them. This makes it easy to see how the line follows the blank.
Norm

Hello Zach.

I use a rod holder mounted to the wall at a fishing angle, and I put the butt and reel on, 10 Ft away I have an eye bolt in the floor.

Run the line thru the guides (Taped On or Not) tie the end of the line to the eye bolt and crank the reel till the handle spins or the rod bends to about 90 degrees.

As long as you have enough guides on the blank you can slide them on or off till you get it right, just watch your fingers with the line.


Hope that helps.


Tight Wraps & Tighter Lines.

Bob,

New Bern, NC.

If not using the two line method, the guides need to be taped on tight. I use electrical tape. Found out the hard way when loading up a 15kg rod and all the guides turned to the bottom of the rod and scratches the blank. I have a rod holder made that I can clamp to a post on my outdoor bbq area. Holder is at 45 degrees.
Scott

Zach, everyone has their method and I'm not here to find fault with any of them. I can only say what I do and why. I suppose I should mention I don't build such heavy class rods, never more than 80# and usually 30# and under.

I use the two line method. Short stout cord/chain/wire attached to tip and other end to carabiner. Reel mounted on rod with line (often rod guide wrapping thread for contrast and limpness) run through guides to a split shot sinker. Guides held in place with tape/rubber bands. Rod placed in rod holder securely attached to something that won't move like concrete column of house. Mount the rod holder to maintain the angle the rod will be at when a fish is straight down when along side the boat. That is worst case assuming captain can keep the fish out from under the boat. With a bent butt you would have the rod holder nearer to vertical and rod would end up around 35 degrees (WAG). Heck use the boat rod holders if you can.

I do not like to load the rod by tying off to a distant immovable object. I feel it isn't giving me the picture I want. I use 5 gallon buckets, suspended in air, and add water in know weight amounts (or I just weigh it afterwards). Only you can say how much weight is enough. For me, on that blank, considering about a 120 degree bend, I'd want to test it at my max drag setting which should be no more than 50% or 65 pounds (and I suspect that blank would take a good deal more). I take some rods to full max ratings under these conditions. But I fish light tackle and putting 30# of pressure on a big wahoo might make the difference for me whereas you putting 130# of pressure on a tuna is going to result in a pulled hook (in many cases).

Oh, after loading rod just move the guides until they mimic the natural bend of the rod with no bowstring effect going on. Load a little move a little, rinse and repeat until pleased. I suspect first time you do it and catch a big one you will notice the difference

Russ in Hollywood, FL.