Hi,
I recently tried to set up two rods for slip bobbers to fish for walleye. I had used one in the past with limited success (caught some). This time I tied a mono leader to the main line (fire line), using the knot as my bobber stop. This caused ticking on the cast. Looking at the spool, I could see the line snagging on the knot as it came off the spool. So I tried the knot with a mono main line, not much better. So I tried with a dog bone style and also a rubber stop. Same thing was happening. The reels were 1000 and 2500 size. One rod was NGC, the other KR. The running guides were 5 1/2's.
After searching slip bobbers I am leaning towards using size 7 running guides. I am thinking cone of flight guide train might work best with which ever bobber stop I use. I am also thinking a larger spool size might work better with the bobber stop (less coils of line to rub the stop while it is on the spool).
I would appreciate any thoughts from the people that use slip bobbers. I apologize for the length of the post, but the typing is good therapy for a recent hand operation.
Thanks

Gary,

I have nothing to offer as far as a purpose built slip bobber rod, but I can share some technique that works for me. #1 first and foremost I have had such a better experience with slip bobbers after I threw them all in the trash and switched to the everlasting slip bobber or ESB. Check them out if you haven't they are true game changers in my opinion, [www.hloutdoors.com] I have zero affiliation just a happy customer. I only use the rubber friction fit type bobber stops, no additional beads or knots. Sometimes I do put a slip bobber on a rod using braid, but I always use a mono/flouro leader longer then my slip distance. When doing so I only use an FG knot, even on very light leaders. I use an FG knot assist tool from Japan, it helps to make perfect FG knots. As far as the bobber stop snagging line as it comes off the spool, this is something that I have to manage constantly if my slip distance is significantly longer then my rod. I recommend ensuring the line is very taught as you retrieve, up to your bobber stop. Then manually place the section of line containing the bobber stop to the rearmost portion of your spool. That should help with coils of line snagging on a cast. As far as preferred guide size to pass a bobber stop, I will let others chime in as I don't feel confident enough to make a recommendation. I have used the knotted line bobber stops on occasion, but I don't have a ton of confidence. I find they move on me or loosen up during repeated casts.

Gary,
The solution is so simple that you will not go back.

Just use 100% mono line, slip on your slip bobber knot, then the slip bobber and then the terminal tackle and go fishing.

Really no reason at all to use anything other than mono line when using a slip bobber. Use a nail knot for the slip bobber knot with the ends cut to at least 3/8th of an inch and you will be good to go.

Use an 8 foot rod with a moderate m-l power and you will be in good shape.

The 5 1/2 running guides are just fine and the nail knot with short tags will have no issue going through the guides and tip top.

Be safe

I think your issue is more of the type knot that you are using, the mono even with the tags cut short will catch on the guides on the cast. As Roger said use a bobber stop like this [www.rod-n-bobbs.com] , you will find if you cut the tag ends short, the string is more flexible than the mono and it will go through the guides much easier. The other thing I use smaller guides size 5 and 6's, if you go up in size the bead for the bobber stop will fit through the tip top and bind up on the cast on sizes larger than 6's, your setup should work well for slip bobbers.

If you really want to avoid any knot issue on your slip bobber rod, just use size 8 runners and size 8 tip top. Large guides, and no knot issues. Sure 8's are bigger than 4's, but with a slip bobber you pitch out the bait and likely put it in a rod holder and wait for the bobber to go down. You really don't care about sensitivity or weight on a slip bobber rod, because you do not cast it too much and you often never hold it after you cast.

Good luck

We like size 6 runners, and use size "D" or "E" wrapping thread to make our own stops.
I found the mono too stiff for a stop, the edges always seem to catch.
Using soft thread goes off the reel and thru the guides well, and a slightly longer tag end seems better.
What that does is make a "cushion" that slides easier than a sharp edge.
Try it and see how it works for you.
I use what you might call half a "Uni-Knot" with the thread around the main line.
Like a "Nail-Knot".

Best wishes,
Ron Schneider
Schneider's Rod Shop
Mountain Home, Arkansas
[www.schneidersrods.com]
mtnron40@yahoo.com
870-424-3381

roger wilson Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> If you really want to avoid any knot issue on your
> slip bobber rod, just use size 8 runners and size
> 8 tip top. Large guides, and no knot issues.
> Sure 8's are bigger than 4's, but with a slip
> bobber you pitch out the bait and likely put it in
> a rod holder and wait for the bobber to go down.
> You really don't care about sensitivity or weight
> on a slip bobber rod, because you do not cast it
> too much and you often never hold it after you
> cast.
>
> Good luck

Roger you must not be using a bead with your stop or using a really large bead to keep it from going through the hole in the slip bobber itself, anything larger than a 6 on my bobber rods and the bead is in between the tip top and the reel seat, that makes for a tough cast when the bead is within the guide train.

Ron,
I use fly rod line for making slip bobber knots. Soft, easy to work with and the line excels as a bobber stop.

Another good line is Dacron musky line.


Be safe

Mark,
When I use slip bobbers, I use the style with the bead pressed into the top of the bobber. That way, there is no floating bead on the line to get hung up at a most inopportune time.

For example, here is a Northland slip bobber with a bead pressed into the top of the bobber to eliminate the need for an extra bead on the line:

[www.google.com]

Roger, I have had issues with line going through the smaller holes in those bobbers, mostly with light lures and not a lot of weight on the end of the line. That's why I was curious as to you suggestion of larger guides, I have a lot of issues with beads going past the tip top when using larger than 6's on a bobber rod.

Living in Minnesota I know a lot about slip bobbers, that's all we fish. I use the Thrill bobbers with the brass insert on top of the bobber, The thrill neon pink knots a sinker and jig head or hook. All my sets up use 6 or 8lb test mono. Some guys power bobber where they drive around watching the graph and when they mark fish, they stop and cast off the back of the boat on top of the fish, they add a small swivel 15" above the jig or hook and put a sliding weight above that. This way the jig gets down fast. We use 7' and longer ML rods to pick up the slack when setting the hook, a 1500 or 2000 size reel is fine and the size 6 running guides work just fine. Catching a 26" walleye on this set up is a blast. At night we use lighted slip bobbers and a leach and that is my favorite way to fish walleye. Google Sliper bobber walleye on You Tube and you can watch 1000 hours of videos.