Hey Folks,
I have a Batson Dream Reamer kit and on one of my reamers, I need to replace the sanding strip on it. The kit does come with replacement paper, but my question is, What is the best glue or epoxy to bind the sanding paper to the tapered reamer?

Thanks.

Bill,

I use rod Bond and have had no issues.

Good Luck

Bill

contact cement. lot less messy than rod bond.

second contact cement - no clamping necessary

A $5.00 sanding belt bought from a hardware store (I use 150 grit) "spiral cut" into a continuous 1" strip, some sections of broken rod blank, some contact cement and in minutes you have as good a reamer as any, and a lot cheaper than most..

I just made a set for myself this morning - contact cement is great when it holds. TEH blank has to be clean, and the contat cement has to be applied properly, and would tightly. I made 8 reamers last month, 6 of them failed, and the other 2 are not goign to last. I have others which I've been using for 10 years. Just keep in mind that if you make your own set, they might not stay together - just clean teh blank and get a new piece of paper and do it again. I dn't know if they still sell it, but Flex Coat had reamer abrasive strips sold by a bunch of suppliers. IT's 36 grit 1/2" wide, and they must special order it because I cannot find a roll that size.

The best glue is contact cement, it holds up to frictional heat very well. If you use epoxy it will rapidly break down when being used under power due to frictional heat.
Norm

We do still sell it. It comes in 25 and 75 foot rolls, 36 grit. Call us and we can help you. 512-858-7742

Also, here is the video we shot a few years back. You have to make sure that you wrap it and use it in the right direction or it will fail. These are power reamers. Our reamers that we have made have lasted for more than 10 years.

[flexcoat.com]

Flex Coat Company
Professional Rod Building Supplies
www.flexcoat.com



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/28/2019 01:21PM by John Cates.

Remove the current sand paper. Then, remove all traces of paper and cement by cleaning or scraping at 90 degrees with a razor blade or razor knife.

Then, go over the blank with Acetone or similar solvent -- not DNA please to remove any traces of stuff left on the blank. Wear rubber gloves when doing this cleaning because it keeps the oil from the hands to get on the blank and it also prevents in the ingestion of solvent through the skin when cleaning. Do this job outside in a gentle wind to keep from breathing any fumes.

Then, have a bag of heavy binders with you when you go to do the contact gluing.

Use a good solvent based contact adhesive for the gluing. No water based contact adhesive please. Lay the paper out on a board and tape or binder down each end of the paper and give the paper a nice coating of contact cement.

Then, give the blank a good coat of contact adhesive.

Now- - very important - let the adhesive dry enough to be just barely tack free.

Finally, starting from the butt of the sanding blank attach the paper to the blank at an angle insuring that it goes on smoothly with no wrinkles or bunching. It works very well if there is a 2nd set of hands to help with the gluing of the paper to the reamer blank to be able to do it smoothly and quickly.

With contact adhesive, you have one chance to glue it on perfectly. If you get the paper out of line, you have to scrap the effort and start over.

With contact adhesive, once the correctly dried pieces of material touch each other, the bond is instant and permanent. So, one shot to do it right, or start over with new paper and a new glue application. When complete, use heavy binders at each end of the reamer to insure that the ends remain tight as the bond does a complete cure.


Best wishes.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/28/2019 09:38PM by roger wilson.

Looks like ROger watched the link John posted

Thanks for the tips, I am going to go with a contact cement, took a look at that video and that looks like the way to go. I was figuring that an epoxy would be subject to heat and failure.

Billy,
I suppose that common sense and experience guide one to a certain outcome.
No, I have never watched the link, but I have used contact adhesive for a lot of different uses.

Thanks Billy.

I always figured I'd croak before I wore it out!

Why would you want to give the paper a good coat of rubber cemrnt Roger ........a typo?

I believe Roger meant contact cement. Same glue, both surfaces. Formica glue.



Edited 1 time(s). Last edit at 05/28/2019 09:14PM by Lynn Behler.

even reaming by hand they wear away..i covered an old set of rattail files with loose grit and they are going strong after ten years..i think the metal core keeps the epoxy from getting too hot..i have not tried them with power though..

I used sand paper for reaming once. Never again.

Rather, I use circular files of various sizes chucked into a variable speed drill spinning backward to avoid screwing the file into the hole on the ring.

[www.rodbuilding.org]

Never wear out the files and never have to do anything with sand paper.

Take care