I’ve only used color preserver (specifically chromaseal) twice and the first time I applied 3 coats and the end result was perfect. The second time I applied 3 coats and had the threads darken only slightly and had some patchiness if you look close. So do you really just need to do 3 coats or is there a trick to applying it and I just accidentally got it right the first time? I put on a liberal amount and wicked off the excess. I shook the bottle first and put the brush in the bottle, maybe I need to pour a little out in a tray? I also did wait overnight after the last coat on both attempts, the successful one and the partially successful one. Any ideas?

One full wet coat is generally enough. It is important to remember that no CP can perform miracles. A light colored thread over a dark colored blank is going to lose a shade no matter what you do. Thread wraps that aren't property packed will show splotchiness.

Nature of the beast.

...................

Ahh...definitely could be the packing job I did...and it was a light blue thread over a black blank.

Tom Kirkman Wrote:
-------------------------------------------------------
> One full wet coat is generally enough. It is
> important to remember that no CP can perform
> miracles. A light colored thread over a dark
> colored blank is going to lose a shade no matter
> what you do. Thread wraps that aren't property
> packed will show splotchiness.
>
> Nature of the beast.
>
> ...................

Give a test piece of blank or dowel you've blackened a coat of white, or thread color paint where the wraps will go and see what you think. Works for me.

This issue comes up frequently. As Tom stated, light thread over a dark blank will always darken to some extent, the lighter the color the more the effect.

Tight packing for the above situation is a MUST! Loose packing permits more "show through" that appears blotchy or patchy.

As Spencer mentions, if you want to use light over dark, apply a coating of white a thread matching light paint under the thread wrap.